Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Fitted a new LH window regulator day before yesterday. Pretty simple job as long as you put the rollers on the correct side of the nylon guide thing.LOL.

Strange that the failure was of the welds holding the crescent gear thingo. The TORX bolts holding the motor were finger tight so I guess the gear climbed over the outside of the crescent gear.
I loktighted the bolts.
Hardest part was getting all the duct tape goo off the window. Funny how over a couple of weeks the window lowered itself a bit so the duct tape glue sort of crept.
There is a good video from Atlantic British on Youtube. It gave me a couple of tricks like slicing the plastic across rather than pulling it all off.
I saved a roller from the broken regulator for the other RH broken regulator as it is only a stuffed roller. How to fit it is another matter as for the brass rollers you should TIG weld the shaft. Cannot La for the Nylon ones.
Regards PhilipA

Last night flushed cooling system after adding some nulon stuff I've had sitting around for ages, just to use it up actually, nothing so far that I have used gets out much more than a good reverse flush with a hose and thermostat removed.

Put a new 82 degree thermostat in my 'custom' top hose inline housing.

Made a feeble attempt to wash out the header tank coz the nulon did jack with that even after half hour of driving around, but gave up.

Put it all back together and filled up with tap water, poured in some RMI-25 additive RMI 25 - Cooling System Treatment & Radiator Coolant Treatment (costeffective.com.au) which is just another suck it and see learning curve experiment.

Ran it up under carport no leaks apparent so parked on lawn.

Haven't checked yet to see if it made the water turn yellow or brought up any visible gunge in the header tank.

It's claimed as being compatible with all additives so will probably add Tectalloy Gold concentrate later when I get the urge to clean the header tank again. (just to see the level in the header tank easy coz of the dark color without popping the cap)

I also drilled a much smaller 3mm bypass hole in the new thermostats flange (the other one when first set up was 8mm, nearest handy drill bit) so car/heater temp should come up a lot quicker now.

So my cooling system is very basic old school now with no fuel cooler and associated plumbing or 3 leg thermostat.

From the head outlet when first started cold, the main water flow is through the heater core and straight back into the bottom rail/water pump inlet, through the engine back to head outlet so heater core warms up first as quickly as possible, at the same time the hole in the thermostat flange allows a small flow past the thermostat (using the radiator as return to water pump) as it is not sitting at the heater take off so needs to sense the temp increase which was one task (other was full bypass of radiator until thermostat opened) of the now deleted hose that ran down from top radiator hose into original thermostat. Once the flow past the thermostat is up to temp it will start to open and control the flow through the radiator.

The original 3 leg thermostat setup in the bottom hose with full radiator bypass teeing off from top hose is the fastest way to get heat into the cabin and a lot of cars that I have worked on incorporate that setup but have the 3 way action with internal bypass and a normal looking thermostat with an extended shaft and blocking plate tacked on the spring side. Similar to this TT532-180 - Thermostat | Tridon

Land rover did it with external 3 leg thermostat and extra plumbing which irked me.