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						SupporterOriginal relocation kit from ebay(about $30) ... the parts themselves are fine. I did need to clean the ports from a couple of bits of swarf, but otherwise no issue with quality.
The other item I pre bought ages ago was the -10AN hose and fittings, not knowing what would be required from ebay. Hose and fittings good quality too.
Turned out not all needed, so a bit of a waste, but I now have a ton of hose remaining. Maybe not obvious but I fitted the remote filter head where the trip switch is on the passenger side firewall. Easy to fit with lots of room.
I reckon total hose length from there to engine maybe 600mm or so, 1m of hose will be plenty.
I got the final parts I needed from VPW(vic performance warehouse). I think they own this Proflow brand ..
Proflow Oil Filter Bypass Adaptor, Spin-On 90 Deg, -08AN ORB, Black Anodized Universal
While the quality of the oil filter plate is better, I don't think it justifies the much higher cost. My issue was that I wanted it fixed so I could move the car sooner rather than later.
VPW is up in Somerton, not far from me. Also, every time I look to get bits from there, staff are very friendly and accommodating with queries. They are a hot rodders parts store.
What was much higher quality was the -10AN fittings. The fittings from ebay work fine, but the VPW proflow fittings much better. The bevel seals seem to have a nicer finish, so they tighten up more smoothly.
This is where issues came about, as not a lot of room down between turbo/drain/exhaust/etc to swing a spanner. The -10AN fittings have a 27mm(1-1/16") hex, so try to find a spanner, both large and small enough, to get in there!
Ideally, I wanted this Moroso adapter, as it look much simpler/cleaner/easier to fit, but they didn't have it in and no idea when(maybe months) to get it in. So I got the proflow sandwhich plate ... NOW!
The Proflow sandwhich plate use o-ring AN (ORB ) outlets like THESE. These have a 7/8" hex head, and you can get specific AN spanners to help fit them(very expensive).
If you fit the plate to engine and then try to fit the ports to the plate, it'll be impossible to tighten them up(again due to no swing space for the spanner. 7/8 socket would work though. With that in mind I also got a couple of -10AN extensions to help with access when it comes time to fit the hoses. I worried that without the short extensions added to the sandwhich plate too, the exhaust down pipe would have been in the way of the hose fittings nuts(again 27mm and spanner only). Maybe not quite 'required', but for sure I reckon they helped to contain the number, and volume, of expletives!(I have them saved for the next job!
) The hose fitting ends at this end, I used 45° types to help kick the hoses up a bit, but still keep the hoses directly off the exhaust manifold too. Not sure, but maybe 90° would have worked too(just 'looked' a bit too close to the exhaust manifold). The hose kit I got came with two of each hose end type(straight,45, 90 and 180) I used the two 90's at the filter head end.
Couple of notes:
The proflow 90° sandwhich kit has a set of ring adapters(coloured) being a universal kit. The TD5 uses 3/4-16 threads for the filter, and it's diameter is about 67mm. The kits that VPW had made up are slightly defective in that on it's own, all those rings are one size only. Not sure which size, but not the 3/4 size needed. So have to get back to Somerton and see what happened there. Sales guy figured it out, that they knew that the kits were not right, and I should have been given another small bag of the proper ring adapters with the sealed pack of the adapter. The hex size on the adapter housings' blank plate is -10AN(ie. 7/8") and there should be plenty of room for socket and ratchet between it and the oil drain to tighten it up.
(I did get some of those super expensive AN spanners tho).
The filter size on the TD5 is between 66 and 73mm(ID and OD of the filters o ring). The Moroso adapter(which I think would be easier to fit) says 2 5/8 inch, which is 67mm, so not sure how well it would fit, but I think it'd be fine.
The Proflow housing has the main body and a large stepped adapter. The larger stepped adapter is for larger oil filter sizes, not needed here, and the main body if the Proflow is nigh on spot on the same size as the oil filter housing on the TD5. Be sure the orings stay in place whilst fitting. Idiot me, should have used some grease or vaseline or something just to tack the orings to the bits to stop the bumbling-fumbling about down there.
If you go this way for parts, then the easiest process for fitting would be, fit the small ports to the sandwhich block before fitting to the engine! I also used thread sealant, knowing that orings do eventually harden, so anything to help with sealing is better.
Then it's easy to fit the extensions once the housing is fitted securely. 27mm deep socket is perfect to fit the extensions, and being the same size as Disco wheel nuts .. I reckon I have about 4 around the place!
Was it worth it ... so far, with the muscle pains still remaining, not feeling it. But I reckon at the next oil change .. 101%
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
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						SupporterDarren
Landrover Discovery 4 The tow horse
2010
IID Gap Diagnostic
Landrover Discovery 2 TD5 (sons project !!!mad!!)
2002
Nanocom
Landrover Discovery 3 .....Gone not forgotten, Discovery 2001 td5...gone, Discovery 2A v8....gone, Discovery 2000 gone
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Talk about "eating your words!"
Avoid those ebay oil filter relocation kits! Actually I still reckon the bulk of the parts(ie. the heads/adapters) are pretty much OK if you're on a strict budget, but the fittings are utter garbage.
Past 2, or maybe more, weeks in between work and events .. been trying to get this setup oil leak free ... haha! With the ebay bits, nigh on impossible. I think the issues had been that the taper on the fittings just wasn't up to scratch to contain 60psi of oil.
Anyhow, in the end I binned the entire ebay parts(other than the hose) and got pretty much all Proflow bits in the end. Even the oil filter head I changed to a side port Proflow one, but the main priority was to get all the fittings higher quality.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Have got the top third of the key broken off in the starter tumbler and am unable to start the D2a, oh well, RACV will come to the party somewhat or do I take out the assembly and try to extract the end myself?
20230905_091634.jpg
Funny how things run, just got some 315mHz keys from the states for the D2 as the rubber and the contact have gone from that key, just needs a bit of tin foil to make the contact to unlock at the moment!!!
2004 Discovery 2a TD5 Auto Aspen Green AKA Robin
2000 Discovery 2 TD5 Auto Alverston Red AKA Edward
1997 Discovery 1 TDi Manual White - Gone but not forgotten
1994 Discovery 1 V8 Auto - Gone once it consumed half the worlds resource of oil
I've had the assy out in mine, and it's not too difficult, although some swearing is involved. However, in my case the anti tamper bolts had already been out. Do you have a spare to cut a new one from? I had to get the cutting code from LR, which was fine, once I had proved ownership..... Fun fact: The actual key blade is the same warding etc as the one for the D1, and my OKA for that matter, so I got a spare cut to a blank for one of those, for a cutting guide, just in case
315MHz? Most D2s are 433.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
If you look at these pics you should be able to see the tip of the blade through that hole. It's just a wafer lock, so the blade will come out with some patience. You might need to manipulate those wafers to actually get the core out of the barrel, but once again it's not too difficult.
IMG_2531 2.jpgIMG_2530 2.jpg
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Atleast in the US they use the 315 version.
My 2004 US import had that, and I swapped it to a 433 one to be able to buy keys locally etc.
EDIT:
To add, that You can just swap the receiver from frequency to another, no nanocom or anything needed to do other than just swap the unit.
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