 Swaggie
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						SubscriberRang a mate today that I help every now and then with his D2A TD5.
He has had a few problems in the last year or so including a failed oil cooler which filled his radiator with oil etc. Cleaned it out, new cooler and away. Water pump, hoses etc. Still has a water leak somewhere.
The thing is the car has now done 405KK and is still on the original trans and motor.
He asked me about changing the trans oil last year and I sucked my lips and said well OK but it may die seeing it had not had a change for 200K . But it looks to be OK. he was complaining about stalling on cold mornings since he did it , but IMHO nothing to do with the trans.
He wants to chip it but my reply was it is probably one of the longest lived and at this stage not to remap it.
He continually did front shafts until recently when I advised him to add the golden aircon hose which he did
Goes to show they are really tough old things. Gives me hope that mine will go for a while yet at 225KK.
Regards PhilipA
Hmmm, did not know that and still don't know it now after having a quick search on such things lol.
As far as practical without taking out a summer diploma on it, what sort of % of performance do you think it would suffer.
Went the two aerial system after being 'lost' in the VHC, in the dark and at the time inexperienced in driving 4wd, long story short at best intermittent staccato communication due to only having a 6db aerial to others with 6db aerials. 3.5 hours till got out to made roads and even then was really only about 400-500 metres from their camp that we could communicate properly.
That said can ditch it and just swap the aerials which isn't as 'neat' but performance is important.
2004 Discovery 2a TD5 Auto Aspen Green AKA Robin
2000 Discovery 2 TD5 Auto Alverston Red AKA Edward
1997 Discovery 1 TDi Manual White - Gone but not forgotten
1994 Discovery 1 V8 Auto - Gone once it consumed half the worlds resource of oil
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SupporterYeah, I wouldn't have done the splitter either.
If you think about it, you're either in 2db country, or 6db country .. not usually both at the same time.
That is, it takes a few hours to go from one terrain type to another .. so not a hard task to just have the two interchangeable aerials, pull up, have a smoko, kick tyres, change aerial types for the terrain ... pack aerial away ... continue on.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
It’s called “insertion loss” so the less number of connectors the better. Also rather than stacking the connectors as you have, making a patch cable would be preferable, both RF wise and mechanically, and $ wise too. Gaining access to a SWR Bridge or Meter (SWR = Standing Wave Ratio) will show you the efficiency of your installation relating to antenna tune and transmitted watts. A de-tuned installation for whatever reason will result in RF (watts) being “reflected” back down the coax to the transmitter which means less transmit power at the antenna. A commercial radio installer can help you with this.
PS: a tuned installation with a high mount 1/4 wave antenna punching out a full 5W would be the most suitable antenna for the High County.

LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Looked up the 1/4wave and that is one of the ones that I have, glad! Location, hmmm, sitting atop the bull bar...
Thinking it may just be better to leave the two aerial cables loose and hook up when needed, i.e. hit the VHC and the 2db goes in and only a single connection. Without taking the splitter apart I am probably pretty certain it is not beautiful in there.
How would this be tuned per se if the cable simply ran from the antenna to the receiver, other than positioning of the aerial of course. The aerials as per the pic are off the body / bonnet by about 10cm or so, well grounded with the bullbar etc. The roof is already covered with the RTT and this would afford some protection as to damage, but at what price to reception???
20220108_123624.jpg
It would be folly to discount a huge percentage by placement of the aerial, but as always there are degrees that one can deem acceptable I suppose.
2004 Discovery 2a TD5 Auto Aspen Green AKA Robin
2000 Discovery 2 TD5 Auto Alverston Red AKA Edward
1997 Discovery 1 TDi Manual White - Gone but not forgotten
1994 Discovery 1 V8 Auto - Gone once it consumed half the worlds resource of oil
 Swaggie
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						SubscriberBTW on the bullbar most of your signal is going backwards as the ground plane of the bonnet and turret is the main ground plane.
If I were to put Antennas on my bullbar I would fit ground plane independent antennas , so that the signal would radiate more equally.
My setup is a small 4DB ground plane independent fibreglass whip above my drivers door B pillar and that will give a more even radiation pattern and is higher up. It is fitted to a pivoting mount so that it doesn't get hit by the garage door
I have a BIG 8 db helical whip just lying in the back of the car if I am ever out in the desert wanting to communicate . Both whips will just screw into the ground plane and are interchangeable.
I hardly ever have it on now I am not in convoys anymore as I cannot stand the inane and obscene chatter.
Regards PhilipA
Hi RRT,
Re: “How would this be tuned per se if the cable simply ran from the antenna to the receiver, other than positioning of the aerial of course”
A common 1/4wave antenna for UHFCB is actually “broad band” and covers from 380 to 520Mhz. They are OKAY in a straight forward installation like a simple cable run between transceiver and antenna. However the 80 UHFCB band is comparatively narrow with the channels ranging from 476.4250 to 477.4125 but the 1/4 wave broad band antenna is able to be tuned to the centre of the band ie ch40 to squeeze the max efficiency out of the meagre 5W we are allowed to transmit. The antenna is tuned by adjusting the length of the radiator, usually by shortening it whilst observing the SWR. Many owners don’t bother with it - some of us do though.
PS: is it an Antenna OR an Aerial? ……. Accepted usage is that an Antenna is used for Transmitting and Receiving and an Aerial is for reception only.
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Interesting seeing a SWR meter used for the UHF.
I've often wondered if it should be done but I've never seen or heard of anyone testing and trimming.
And I've never asked anyone that would know.
Thanks for filling in the knowledge gap.
Back in the old days of 27MHz it was considered mandatory on a new installation (god I feel old saying that)
 Swaggie
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						SubscriberFrom what I have read the SWR is not so important on UHF.
On VHF if the SWR was out a lot , the RF stage of the CB could be damaged but this apparently does not apply to UHF.
Regards PhilipA.
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