Got the joy of pulling out my freshly installed new drawers because my fuel pump died. I guess that's her protest against fuel prices.
Also she's now got fresh new ATF fluid because initially the fuel pump was working just enough I thought it was a gearbox issue (almost like there's a reason doing a stall test is a good idea, went from like 2100rpm to 2800rpm)
Manged to get this in today, soon to be running i hope lol
03 D2a Manual Td5 Modified, Ashcroft lockers F&R, Ashcroft R380,Atb lt230, Ashcroft Rear axles, AS manual IC, AS exhuast manifold, AS Coolant bottle, 3inch exhaust, alive GTB550 VGT, billies 7100s, 3inch lift, 4inch staino snorkel, 35s beadlocked
Installed a replacement fuel flap clip that my youngest son printed on his 3d printer. Works like new
Cheers
My fuel flap lock mechanism fell out some time in last couple of days. I expect to have to remove some panel lining to get to it.![]()
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
But of work done this last few days to my D2A, finally finished installing twin tanks (sill tank and wheel arch tank) for them plumed up and spliced in. Then wired up the pumps and gauges. All worked pretty well, I've still got to mess with the gauges to get them spot on. The only downside is this morning I put in 112 liters, not quite full but cost $340!!!!
I also managed to replace the oil cooler on the new Blue Bus, not too bad of a job. I've still got to replace the exhaust gasket and tidy up.some engine bay bits, then it's onto changing from air bags to coils, get some new tires and then hopefully it will be ready for registration. With luck 6 weeks time it will be on the road (I'm away for 2 weeks at a time)
I used an oil cooler from AliExpress, cost about $55 honestly it looks exactly like the original one, same weight as well (good sign) but will see how it goes
Cheers
Redd
2003 D2a "The Red Rig" TD5 auto, (number 1 son is now the operator)
2003 D2a "White Weapon" TD5, auto, 17" BFG's and more to follow
Almost qualified as a Land Rover operator
Yeah, same ... I had to fill the D2a yesterday in Mel .. took 90lt $280! ... Youch!. Funny thing was, I prepped myself for the monster hit, but still watching it come out of the account hurt more than my expectation.
Ditto on the Ali stuff. Had to buy a fusebox for my Pug 3008 ... stupid built in relay designs!!!
Original Pug stuff is unaffordable for this price level of vehicle .. 1/4 the value of the car. S/H they want about $300. Found part number on Ali for $100. Fitted it the other day and got rid of the error that the AC clutch system and is now operational ... problem was that it didn't fix the actual problem of engaging the clutch(could be gas leak for now).
The other car part item I found on Ali was the three wiper refill items needed for the D2. Not the original style with the clip lock(BMW style) wiper blade setup, this is a slimline, curved style that more modern vehicles seem to use. On the D1 was easy, go into any parts store and being the common curved hook design, they're usually in stock. I find the D2 type blade assembly is impossible to find in stores, but easy to find online, but a silly prices.
This slimline curved type, for the fronts, require removing the plastic fixture off the wiper arm, that it not just unclip the blade, also remove the holder on the arm, then the new ones from Ali clip directly onto the arm. Wipers nice and quiet and wipe well. Because of the slimline wiper blade style they don't sit perfectly in the standoff on the arm, but they still work. Cleans nice, zero flip noise now ... for $30 was a decent value for money.
I'm finding some stuff on Ali is quite good if you search long and hard enough.
Another thing I forgot to post about: There's a seller on ebay selling D2 rear door(cargo door) latches for cheap. And really cheap compared to original items .. if you can find one! IIRC you may get one old stock out of the US, but have your heart meds ready when you see prices. So a young kid in my town had a problem with his getting jammed, and I didn't have a working spare for him .. and also reminded me to look into doing something for my D2. My D2 had the stuck door issue years back, and I had a spare off the parts bomb. Maybe 7 years, maybe more. It's been getting stiffer and harder over time, I've lubed/sprayed, blown with air compressor ... still gooey and vague using the rear latch lever. So bought a few off ebay(mid 100s). Went to fit to my D2 to confirm it works, and yeah! ... opens like a new car now. The rear latch lever is a single finger nice new feeling click. Due to the wear of the old latch I must have adjusted the door catch further inwards to get rid of rattling. With new latch fitted door was now too tight, so had to readjust the catch outwards a bit to get door 'less tight'. While the new latch works great and fits .. it's not for a D2. Dunno what car it IS for, but the issue is that the lever for the lock plunger is too short. For me no problem, as I never use it and it's useless anyhow. Doesn't and can't unlock from the inside anyhow ... so useless. You need a plunger off a front door, and bend and cut the rod to size to allow the plunger to reach the it's recess in the door. As is, with the std rear door plunger it will fall into the door. Not a hard mod, but something to be aware of. Other than the lock plunger... I rate this latch highly too.
Yeah, I've been doing some stuff (as above and other stuff too) on D2 and D2a, just forget to post.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
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