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Thread: Permanent TD5 Injector Loom Fix...

  1. #1
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    Permanent TD5 Injector Loom Fix...

    Has anyne done the fix referred to in this thread?

    DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - injector harness - how to seal?

    The fellow there reckons 200,000 miles (MILES!!) and no more oil...

    MIght help someone.

    Cheers

  2. #2
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    You can find various ways to stop the oil getting to the ECU but IMO that's only part of the problem, the main issue is that the contacts in the solenoid plugs of the loom are getting loose in time and that's the main reason for the injector fault codes and running issues, the oil is making things worst but just stopping it reaching the red plug is not enough to have a perfectly running engine
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  3. #3
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    Bloody electronics!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    Has anyne done the fix referred to in this thread?

    DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - injector harness - how to seal?

    The fellow there reckons 200,000 miles (MILES!!) and no more oil...

    MIght help someone.

    Cheers
    Yes I've done it... TD5 injector harness - a different idea.

    I'd only do it with a new injector loom and with the object of increasing the service life of the connector (failed connectors pass oil). Anecdotal evidence is that it does mitigate the problem of oil finding it's way to the ECU. However it is a hostile environment that the injector looms live in and there are other issues with the loom injector connectors that sierraferry has discussed previously.

    casper
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  5. #5
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    just look at it like maintenance

    like replacing plugs & leads on a petrol, only not as often...
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  6. #6
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    My loom has been sealed and so far so good. Whats every ones thoughts on when to renew the harness as preventative maintenance?
    Regards
    Robbo

  7. #7
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    I've done this also.
    I filled my injector harness connector with silicone when it needed replacement. (Found oil at ECU connectors).
    Pop off its lid, fill with silicone and replace lid. I partially plugged it into the head connector to ensure all pins had proper alignment for connection. When the silicone is all set, fit to engine properly.
    Wash out any oil from loom to ECU and ECU connector/s.
    I disconnected loom plug from the head and hung it down as far as it would go then made a little collar for the ECU end to retain the wash fluid and tied it up as high as it would go. I used metho but see others have used different fluids. This was left for a day or so, topping up as necessary. The oil was washed out the head plug end.
    I now check the ECU connectors at each service. So far no oil after some 40,000 Km.

  8. #8
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    An alternative fix

    Just as alternative.....

    The plug on the loom that attaches to the injector loom on the head was damaged on my TD5 and kept falling off. I couldn't get it to stay on, even with zip ties. I managed to get hold of a second hand plug with approximately 6 inches of wire hanging off it.
    I cut, soldered and put heat shrink over the soldered joins.
    If I do get a leak from the injector loom now, it can't go any further than the soldered joins. Fixed the problem by default I suppose.

    Cheers,

    Jason

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason789 View Post
    Just as alternative.....

    The plug on the loom that attaches to the injector loom on the head was damaged on my TD5 and kept falling off. I couldn't get it to stay on, even with zip ties. I managed to get hold of a second hand plug with approximately 6 inches of wire hanging off it.
    I cut, soldered and put heat shrink over the soldered joins.
    If I do get a leak from the injector loom now, it can't go any further than the soldered joins. Fixed the problem by default I suppose.

    Cheers,

    Jason
    I've seen that solution mentioned on a South African forum i think. Basicly cut the loom and solder the wires back together or solder each end to a perf / breadboard PCB http://www.jaycar.com.au/Service-Aids/PCB-Accessories/Breadboards/PC-Boards-Vero-Type-Strip---95mm-x-75mm/p/HP9540 ........

    .........and accomodate the conjunction in a jiffy box Jiffy Box - Black - 158 x 95 x 53mm | Jiffy | Plastic Boxes | Enclosures & Panel Hardware | PRODUCTS | HB6011 | Jaycar Electronics

    This and Jasons solution blocks the capillary action that allows the oil to wick down to the ECU.

    casper

    PS - my only connection with JAYCAR is that I am an occasional and happy shopper there :-)
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

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