Genuine and replace the bolts as well. Even though I paid someone else to do it, the cost of parts isn't that big.
I am about to do my injector seals. Is there any consensus on genuine v non genuine seals?
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
Genuine and replace the bolts as well. Even though I paid someone else to do it, the cost of parts isn't that big.
Do you know the part number for these bolts?
Why do I need to change the bolts?
I have just finished reading the procedure in RAVE and there is no mention of renewing the bolts.
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
IMO it's about the 6 rocker shaft bolts, these are recommended to be renewed once removed exactly like the head bolts... and that's stated in the manualOriginally Posted by ENGINE - TD5; REPAIRS 12-1-45
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
Also check your torque wrench to see if it does the setting for the injector bolts and the rocker bolts.
I have 2 and it was in between them... don't tell anyone but I went to the 28nm on the lower and then a bit further to what I estimated to be right. Keep it quiet, I reused the bolts too. I read the replace bit, but none of these are high stress values...
I reckon a good quality O ring, whether genuine or not, is the go. But the difference between genuine and non is about $10 or something... so why bother.
Ditto copper sealing washers, not a lot of difference.
Do you have the actual LR tool to pull the injectors? I did buy one and it made it very easy to do the job and no leaks or issues afterwards.
If you are doing it without, be careful, this is the same kind of 'feature' as the 4JX1 in the Jackaroo, a damaged injector sleeve could make your year miserable.
I can post a bunch of pictures of the real tool if you need so you can figure out how to make a stand in. The basic part is a slide hammer, but it basically holds onto the flats of the injectors and naturally sits perpendicular to the head face. Note that the injectors head face is about 10 degrees off vertical in the engine.
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
I wouldn't be concerned about the bolts.
They are not torqued to yield like head bolts and will be fine to re use.
Go The Genuine, they do cost more but don't tend to leak like the aftermarket ones. If you examine a Genuine one against an aftermarket one closely the stamp out of the after market ones are inferior.
Cheers, Mario
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