Odometer flashing

**johnp38** · 2nd February 2021, 12:02 PM

I did read that as well, (about the resync after x starts) however after having spent way too much time reading same same info chasing various issues, I stumbled across a post somewhere that even after the odo reading syncs the kays the Instrument Panel still needs to be matched to BCU with diagnostic tool to stop the flashing.

As far as I can tell by reading online the odo doesn't flash if vehicle is in limp home mode, just indicates unmatched IP to BCU

I have tried a different MAP sensor (cheap crap ,out of spec I think) which changed the driving characteristics enough to point to a sensor or multiple sensors issue.

Am waiting on Bosch MAP sensor to arrive so I can at least have a spare on hand even if it isn't the problem.

I have direct turbo outlet to wastegate pipe (bypassing the wastegate modulator), so that may be issue with no grunt up hills at highway speed but priority for now is stopping fuel leak at fuel regulator today then moving on to take off issues when MAP and MAF sensors arrive.

Can leave holding cruising speed alone till last, can't get fines if you can't speed.

Thanks to all that reply, any suggestion can be the one that puts the other ideas together and solves the problem/s.

**johnp38** · 2nd February 2021, 12:09 PM

Oh,just realized other bit I missed, D is not flashing,

All idiot lights come on with ignition on so globes all working, no idiot lights on when vehicle operating.

**PhilipA** · 2nd February 2021, 12:44 PM

I have direct turbo outlet to wastegate pipe (bypassing the wastegate modulator), so that may be issue with no grunt up hills

Do you really mean that or do you have a manual wastegate controller?

The turbo will have the wastegate open most of the time in that case and make very little boost.

If you have a manual wastegate controller, no boost is presented to the wastegate diaphragm until the preset boost level eg say 20Lbs per sq inch when it opens and the wastegate then opens limiting the boost to the preset level.

I can only imagine how poorly the car would perform with the setup as you describe.
Regards PhilipA

**johnp38** · 2nd February 2021, 01:31 PM

Yes the pipe that normally goes into the bottom of the wastegate modulator goes direct to the wastegate actuator.

The top pipe still goes into the inlet just after the MAF and there is a loop pipe from side of modulator into bottom(to keep dirt outI presume) and the wiring is unplugged.

This is how I got hold of it and from reading on this forum I think it may be the culprit causing the up hill loss of go.

There is no EGR present it has the delete pipe and exhaust blank fitted (also as it came). I removed the egr solenoid and its vacuum plumbing to declutter a bit and blocked off the t-piece until I get an inline fitting or complete one piece replacement vacuum hose from alternater to brake booster.

I think I need to stop trawling the net and go wrestle with the leaky fuel pressure regulator b4 another day gets wasted.

**onebob** · 2nd February 2021, 02:01 PM

Originally Posted by johnp38

Yes the pipe that normally goes into the bottom of the wastegate modulator goes direct to the wastegate actuator.

The top pipe still goes into the inlet just after the MAF and there is a loop pipe from side of modulator into bottom(to keep dirt outI presume) and the wiring is unplugged.

This is how I got hold of it and from reading on this forum I think it may be the culprit causing the up hill loss of go.

There is no EGR present it has the delete pipe and exhaust blank fitted (also as it came). I removed the egr solenoid and its vacuum plumbing to declutter a bit and blocked off the t-piece until I get an inline fitting or complete one piece replacement vacuum hose from alternater to brake booster.

I think I need to stop trawling the net and go wrestle with the leaky fuel pressure regulator b4 another day gets wasted.

With no waste gate modulator you are likely experiencing “waste-gate creep“ especially if the boost has been wound up! ie the waste-gate actuator rod has been shortened. The factory setting is 14 threads visible above the knurled lock nut. I have a near new waste gate modulator that is yours FOC if you want it so you can return to a factory setup to assist diagnosis. I have no need for it because years ago I deleted my WGM and fitted a manual boost controller.
Rob

**johnp38** · 2nd February 2021, 09:45 PM

Originally Posted by onebob

The factory setting is 14 threads visible above the knurled lock nut. I have a near new waste gate modulator that is yours FOC if you want it so you can return to a factory setup to assist diagnosis.
Rob

Thanks for the offer Rob, very kind of you.

After actually getting out there this arvo I did manage between distractions to remove the regulator block and replace the fuel pressure regulator (Bosch 0280160575) and the seals. No leaks after doing the 5 pedal push bleed thingy and running it for a bit.

I also rerouted the wastegate modulator plumbing to how it should be, the regulator was still plugged in I must have got confused with the EGR solenoid which was unplugged before I removed it.

So I will road test tomorrow and see what gives. Also will remove the wastegate modulator and bench test before I go any further regarding your generous offer.

Getting a bit off topic from the flashing Odometer !!

Thread: Odometer flashing

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