Yes, I'm just about to order my half barrier.
Sooner trust a full barrier as a quasi roll cage toobut that's just me. Plus my barrier was free
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And good post Mr A, a timely reminder. Definitely worth removing the tab, easy for gear to fall on top and block it.
Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app
Hi Folks, While travelling remote I had the rear door refuse to open when all the others opened. Dont have a barrier but back packed up and all strapped down. I have a home made false floor fitted so I could not access the inside handle. Eventually got the door open and removed the lock. Found some insulating tape inside lock and a LOT of dust/dirt. Cleaned it all up and lubed it.
The button is a one way action - will lock but not unlock as it has a free movement area in the unlock direction of the lever that the button rod attaches to. Analysing it I fitted a small screw to eliminate the free movement so the lever bears on the screw and now the button will unlock the door if I pull it up. However there is not enough of the button showing to properly grab so I drilled a small hole through the button near the top and have a loop of sash cord to pull on/snag with a rod.
Works a treat. Thankfully its not locked me out since but I have a plan B if it does.
Try it.
GIL
Has anyone effectively made a dust seal for the mechanism/actuator? Would solve all the dust issues.
Hmmmm, I have removed my inside handle all together when I made my rear door table, might have to investigate an option...
I modified a full barrier...
Bottom sections of mesh removed...
Drop seats and can go into rear area..
If it's loaded, just undo the lower mounts and pull barrier out.
Actuator button protected by a small piece of ally over the top to prevent loads keeping it down..
Being the side with the fridge slide, the fridge can be pulled forward to access the rear door...
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