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Hi Wobba
If it goes well with the MAF disconnected that is a sure sign the MAF is dead. When you get your nanocom put it instrument mode and check the airflow readings. A flat line around 4 will mean a dead MAF. Just to complicate things a dead MAF is not likely to throw an error code.
Re learned values, this only applies to the automatic transmission from memory.
Cheers
Steve
Also I should say I get a real "Diesel Lope" when I come off the accelerator & return back to idle. I have a vid somewhere. I'll post it here.
Found it.
Note in the vid I am running the old MAF so acceleration is good. Even with a working MAF is still get this Lope Sound.
https://www.google.com.au/url'sa=t&s...OIX5kd9Iuev7yw
Help Required: Nanocom Screen Shots
Ok Gang. What looks wrong here. This is my D2a at idle.
I'm getting lack of power issues down low.
Sent from my LG-D802T using AULRO mobile app
What about your injector equalisation %s?
Regards Philip A
It would also help taking the car for a drive with the nanocom connected and using the recording function to capture a log file. Post the file up here and the members can have a look and advise.
It's worth give it the car a good run, note how long you drove it for and if the flat spot occurs during the drive the approx time it happened.
If you haven't done so also double check for any error codes.
You'll need an SD card to capture the file. Tap the little floppy disk icon on the instrument screen and follow the instructions.
Cheers
Steve
2 things are looking bad:
1. Fuel temp too high
2. Air flow too low
Battery voltage is a bit low too (if the engine is running).
Sent by iPhone using two tin cans and Forum Runner
I 2nd that, both jumped out at me!Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
Time for a new MAF i think - I wonder if there is anyone around Alice that can lend you one that we know works. The only thing I can potentially think of is the boost box lowers the values so it doesn't go above the limit later in the curve - but I think you said it used to run fine?
Roverlord here on the forum is your best friend and will sell you all the parts you need to fix issues, and should have a MAF on hand for you.
RE fuel temp, something is up there, should be 10-15 degrees lower than coolant temp.
Given the map and maf have been replaced recently, I'd be looking at the boost box next. They can fail. At least bypass and see what readings you get with the sensors running straight into the ecu.