Thread: D2 overheating TOTALLY FINALLY solved v8 and Tdi

Here's mine:

http://www.efq.com.au/In-Line-Stat-Mod-D2.JPG

For the lower hose I just put in a connector and joined the two remaining hoses.

Cheers

Here is my version.
You can go straight over the top, but it hit the bonnet so offset it and needed a u bend.

IMHO I don't think that is optimal as the T stat is too far away from the block.

Also, how do you bleed the air out?

Yes
I understand that the Stat is away from the Block but remember the one we are replacing was further. I am not completely sold on the hairpin turn that mine does and will work on a more efficient route. I am unsure of the significance of the distance from the block, but imagine that absenting heat loss from the pipes in between it will be okay. I am not sure how he bled the air out and I do have a joiner on top so in the New Year I am going to get a joint with a bleed screw for the very top to replace the OEM one. It is with respect, a crucial point because my understanding is that any pockets or bubbles are quite unwelcome.
I do appreciate the input and can tell you that the thing is running 10 to 15 degrees cooler Celsius. That is my starting point. I just had to get the temperature down. So maybe I do have an underlying cooling issue or some problem? Now that I have got it running cooler, I am prepared to do some more mods if needed. This topic is all over the US discovery 2 forums. cheers

I've seen quite a few inline stats fitted over the years, they may indeed work well in summer once they are varying flow through the radiator but their Achilles heel is in winter. The water in the rad is stone cold and the thermostat cracks open dumping a load of hot coolant in the top tank and a slug of cold water enters the block. The cyclic pulses of hot and cold water can wreck an engine block or head gasket within a few months. The better designs have a bypass hose connected to the housing so that a constant stream of coolant runs past the sensing bulb, keeping the block temperature more even. Basically like an OEM stat but made of metal with replaceable guts.

Yes i get the need to avoid temp differentials and how destructive it can be. As we are in Brisbane we usually stay above 12 or 10 with a few 6 degree nights.
Many days are 30 plus and in traffic worse. So as I said this is a start. Murray drilled a bleed hole in the stat to allow permitted leakage into the system thus slowing the time to achieve 82 degrees but not shocking the head with the cold or the rad with the hot exactly as you rightly warn. I will try and ascertain what type of bypass or bleed flow there is. Also now that the system seems so stable, I am contemplating putting in a higher temperature stat maybe and 85 or 87 just to bring it up a little it seems to sit at around 86 to 91 under extreme load and I would be prepared to have it topping 94 sitting 87 88. I am getting these temps from the obdc .
Essentially it is a school bus and shopping trolley for most of its life around inner-city Brisbane, and does usually two trips a year towing a van or a boat sometimes on bitumen sometimes on sand. So sitting in traffic and idling has been the killer to date, with episodic stressful bouts.

Just google in line stat discovery 2 there are heaps in the US

Here is an interesting video of a guy with an episodically malfunctioning OEM stat.
I reckon there are good and bad ones
Some work and some don't
Just a thought


cheers

I can appreciate a simple solution such as the original post. There is much less complexity to it, it's easy to access and replace when necessary.

On the flip side, the factory thermostat has been designed and tested in millions of vehicles in the years they've been on the road, and they work!

Only two days ago I had to use every hope and dream the factory thermostat could muster up - the bearing failed in my water pump and to get from where I was (60km from phone coverage) I removed the engine fan and drove without it to avoid any further aggravation on the pump shaft. When I removed the pump, there was 20mm of shaft play side to side, and I'm extremely surprised it didn't leak coolant whatsoever!

Using my nanocom I watched like a hawk, especially in traffic when I got to the nearest town (Mackay). The highest temp I saw was 98 deg in traffic, otherwise, while moving above 60kmh, it sat on 92deg. Only came up a little on the hills.

With respect, perhaps there was another issue with the cooling system on your D2?

Cheers
Keithy