Thread: D2 overheating TOTALLY FINALLY solved v8 and Tdi

So after fitting an 82c, unknown bypass spring rate to my stock D2 setup, and seeing running temps of 84-90c, I notice my heater is nowhere near as warm as it previously was.

No good as I use it all winter to dry snow gear on my 20 min drive back to camp.

Though the hairs on my left leg are recovering from 5 years of singeing.

I have been having trouble with over heating in my TD5 2003.

The temperature has varied from 85 deg to 130, then I am in trouble, there is certainly over pressuring that I did not think was possible. An 18lb cap should release at that pressure but it does not seem to.

So, I have two main suspects, an overly developed ECU and no EGT gauge (yet), or a head gasket.

Any load on the vehicle causes spikes in temp, even driving through the hills on the freeway at 100KPH with no other load on the temp will spike to 120+.

Today we towed a trailer with a lot of wind resistance (portable toilet) and kept the speed under 80 KPH even down to high 60s at times going up hill and whilst the temp varied quite a lot (82 - 103) we had no problems with overheating. The max it got up to was 103 but backing off and there was an instant drop.

Is it possible to retro fit a standard ECU to prove that (over fueling) side of things?

The third option could simply be the cooling system, I am in the middle of trying to fit up the 'American' solution, the only part of the cooling system that is unknown is the pump, but with the air bleed valve out it really sends coolant high, so it seems to me to be reasonable.

I'll report on any findings.

Regards

Mike

Originally Posted by nismine01

....

The third option could simply be the cooling system, I am in the middle of trying to fit up the 'American' solution, the only part of the cooling system that is unknown is the pump, but with the air bleed valve out it really sends coolant high, so it seems to me to be reasonable.

I'll report on any findings.

Regards

Mike

Does it sound as tho the viscous fan is on or cutting in at all?
Do a quick check to see it it doesn't freewheel at least.
I use anything well padded to attempt to stop it while the engine is at idle.

* anything well padded could be: wooly riggers gloves, a nice medium to high density foam cushion, a really thick pile of rags .. just depends on what's at hand at the time. That's what I do when I'm on my own.
A less painful method is to hold the fan before starting the engine(still with something really well padded and gloves!) and get someone to start the engine. Easier to check this when the engine is at normal operating temps too(ie. not cold).

Sometimes you can stop them, even tho they're in good working order. If you have the engine running and you can stop it, you really need to hold it for a short while as it may be too cold to 'kick in'. So at some point within a few minutes it'll start to push against you holding it and then work as intended.

I have a 300Tdi D1, and just figured out that mine isn't working as it should be now. Maybe hasn't been for a while now, as when I use the AC on a very hot day, it used to get hotter, then it normally runs.
I've had my D1 for a year now, and first thing I checked when I got it home was the viscous hub, with the above method.
I could slow mine down but not exactly stop it back then. Now I can easily hold it, and it also easily freewheels in the opposite direction to it's normal rotation. I can give it quick flick in the other direction and it can move quite a fair amount on it's own in that direction .. against the direction the hub is supposed to move it! .. Viewed from the front of the car, it should spin clockwise.

I just ordered a new one tonight.

Well I've started, the thermostat is out of the system, no replacement.

This was done simply by buying a longer hose and fitting it from the radiator to the link pipe across the cross member taking out the thermostat housing.

The top hose link to the thermostat is folded and plugged with a 3/4" plug fitting with the thread sealed and a clamp around it.

I know this is no long term solution but for finding out what will happen it has done the job.

At 100KPH the engine would over heat, we went for a 100K drive yesterday up the freeway with Nanocom hooked up and no problems.

True it did run a little cool for a while though it was started and left running before we took off. On the road the temp ran around the mid seventies and went up as far as 80 when pulling up hills.

I am about to make up an inline thermostat holder that will support heater take off and the connection for the ECU. It is in my head, I just have to get it into material!

Then source a radiator hose that when cut to accept the housing will fit head to radiator.

I would if possible like to get away from the high point in the top hose then the bypass hose from the top of the radiator should automatically bleed off any air in the system.

Just as a note, the entire cooling system was on my previous car and there were no problems at all with temps on the vehicle!

Regards

Mike

Originally Posted by nismine01

Well I've started, the thermostat is out of the system, no replacement.

This was done simply by buying a longer hose and fitting it from the radiator to the link pipe across the cross member taking out the thermostat housing.

The top hose link to the thermostat is folded and plugged with a 3/4" plug fitting with the thread sealed and a clamp around it.

I know this is no long term solution but for finding out what will happen it has done the job.

At 100KPH the engine would over heat, we went for a 100K drive yesterday up the freeway with Nanocom hooked up and no problems.

True it did run a little cool for a while though it was started and left running before we took off. On the road the temp ran around the mid seventies and went up as far as 80 when pulling up hills.

I am about to make up an inline thermostat holder that will support heater take off and the connection for the ECU. It is in my head, I just have to get it into material!

Then source a radiator hose that when cut to accept the housing will fit head to radiator.

I would if possible like to get away from the high point in the top hose then the bypass hose from the top of the radiator should automatically bleed off any air in the system.

Just as a note, the entire cooling system was on my previous car and there were no problems at all with temps on the vehicle!

Regards

Mike

have a look at pedro''s excellent article
imho no stat in Adelaide will cause excess wear at below operating temp while she warms
enjoy

What's yours running at on these colder mornings Geoff? Cheers

Originally Posted by ozscott

What's yours running at on these colder mornings Geoff? Cheers

Shes taking longer to reach 82 but sitting squarely on 82
ie the stats doing its job
i suspect it's 85 cause I'm now using watchdog on the outlet and it sits 3 degrees under the computer temp BUT I am happy
now I can concentrate on avoiding the lunatics.
BTW She's loving the cooler weather
might stay on the 82 I think
how about you Scotty, and any other in line stat men?
aye

Cheers Geoff. In the very early AM when it's 14 degrees outside here it sits on 70 (No traffic and 70kph) and then in traffic 80-82.. Cheers