New Head Gaskets

I cut my teeth on these engines/cars when i worked for Land Rover.

15ft/lb + 90 Degree on compasite gaskets is what I torqued EVERY RV8 up to. I think last time i checked my work log I had done 86 engines. The factory spec is 15ft/lb 90 deg + 90 deg. This was pulling the thread out the block.

I always check the cam shaft in the v8s. Slowly turn the engine over and check to see if all the lobes look the same. Check all lifter to make sure the bottom surface is flat. If they are domed/worn out i'd do a new cam lifter set.

Before every cylinder head replacement I would try run the engine up as hot (without over heating) to listen for tapping noises. These blocks have a major problem with the liners slipping. You can check to see if your finger catches the lip. If so its engine out and new liner time.

I never had to machine/drill the manifold ever. If you place the manifold on and tap it with a soft face hammer, have all your bolts clean, they will screw straight in. LR made the manifold with large enough holes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DAW

I cut my teeth on these engines/cars when i worked for Land Rover.

15ft/lb + 90 Degree on compasite gaskets is what I torqued EVERY RV8 up to. I think last time i checked my work log I had done 86 engines. The factory spec is 15ft/lb 90 deg + 90 deg. This was pulling the thread out the block.

I always check the cam shaft in the v8s. Slowly turn the engine over and check to see if all the lobes look the same. Check all lifter to make sure the bottom surface is flat. If they are domed/worn out i'd do a new cam lifter set.

Before every cylinder head replacement I would try run the engine up as hot (without over heating) to listen for tapping noises. These blocks have a major problem with the liners slipping. You can check to see if your finger catches the lip. If so its engine out and new liner time.

I never had to machine/drill the manifold ever. If you place the manifold on and tap it with a soft face hammer, have all your bolts clean, they will screw straight in. LR made the manifold with large enough holes.

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Thanks mate. I appreciate your input. This motor has done 44,000k...tappets are as flat new ones. Cam looks great. All to be expected. I am using an ARP head stud kit so stretch bolt application doesn't apply to me but I take note of the extra 90 degrees causing problems and will factor that in with the head stud nut torque setting.

Engine was quiet as a mouse before I took heads off.

Cheers

To do coil packs properly and to ensure the click I reckon taking the coil pack and bracket out is the way to go....

Attachment 118441

Old genuine LR leads have more meat at the coil pack end. The electrode and ceramic insulator are both bigger versus the new Bosch Super Sport stainless. Although stainless versus copper so who knows...

The old leads had several plug end electrodes that were cactus....

Attachment 118442

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozscott

Thanks mate. I appreciate your input. This motor has done 44,000k...tappets are as flat new ones. Cam looks great. All to be expected. I am using an ARP head stud kit so stretch bolt application doesn't apply to me but I take note of the extra 90 degrees causing problems and will factor that in with the head stud nut torque setting.

Engine was quiet as a mouse before I took heads off.

Cheers

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If you go to ARP's web-site they have Tutorials on how to install their head (and other) studs, esp. the type of lubricant to use on the threads.
Flat Tappet cam followers should NOT be flat on the cam face surface, they are machined to have a very slight radius (about 2M.), or domed surface this causes the follower to rotate on the cam lobe to distribute wear.
If the follower surface is flat or concave then it is buggered, new lifters are cheap enough to replace at rebuilds, Regards Frank.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozscott

To do coil packs properly and to ensure the click I reckon taking the coil pack and bracket out is the way to go....

Attachment 118441

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I am about to put coil packs in on my engine but it is using EDIS 8 and Megasquirt - can I take the numbering in your pic is correct? :)

Haha
Hope so....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/766.jpg

Gary I just got serious about writing up my reassembly instruction notes. As you say the pdf instructions (Revision 1.12.16) say 70 pounds and the paper instructions (Jan 16) simply say 3 equal steps up to 100 foot pounds. Given the paper was 3 equal steps and the pdf sets out the 3 equal steps I reckon the steps '1-4' is a misprint and should read 1-3. Thus finish torque is 70. Now this should be heaps, notwithstanding Pedro's experiences, as from memory the Rover 3500 motor before stretch bolts went 65 foot pounds on their head bolts and that would have been coarse thread into block with twisting action so fine thread nuts on a straight pull and using the very slippery ARP lube should apply sufficient clamping at 70 foot pounds.

Cheers https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/764.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/765.jpg

When you think about it why does it need to be so hard - the instructions should be perfectly clear which the paper ones are but go against everything "professionals" all over the world think and now seems to go against the latest online instructions from the manufacturer.

i had the same dilemma with my build and have not fired her up yet so I dont know if I made the right decision to go to a lower torque.

I guess I will see hopefully in a few weeks.

garry

I hope you pair have better luck at that poundage than me.:ohyes:





but I mean who really knows?
maybe the block from Turners wasnt flat?
or maybe the serviced heads werent serviced?
or maybe BOR cant twirl spanners for ****?
or maybe their torque wrench needed calibrating?
or maybe 30K is the limit on head gaskets?
or maybe it really is a BSL.

:confused:

OK cleaned all threads again and inspected. Very clean. Ran a stud down all holes just to check bottoming out. Cleaned surfaces one last time with CRC brake clean for no residue. Inserted and torqued up spark plugs. Elring gasket on one side. Passenger side head on. Sitting properly. ARP special goo to coarse threads and wound in by hand and bottomed out. Coat all fine threads, washers and nuts with special ARP lube and install washers and nuts to hand tight. 25 pounds, 50 pounds and then 70 pounds in proper sequence. Feels good. Attachment 118510https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/750.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/751.jpg