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Thread: CDL options

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyhoon94 View Post
    Thanks Bohica,

    Feels like I need to deal drugs or sell off some organs to finish this disco in my lifetime.
    Well I know that feeling, My head gasket needed doing a month after I bought mine.
    Do not go the Ashcroft Transmissions. I do and it hurts!!
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares View Post
    Find a wrecker D1, cannibilise the CDL and levers and retro fit to the D2, it won't be cable operated like the D2s but will be like the D1s. It'll look the same on the top of the console.
    Thanks roverlord!

    I've been contemplating going down this path as it's become the option that most have suggested.

    Main question I have for this method is how difficult is the retrofit for a beginner with not much prior knowledge? (My thoughts are given I could completely bugger the job, is it better to outsource this and if so, cost between outsourcing the retrofit vs going with Ashcroft internals.

    Currently saving money up to buy all the internals from Ashcroft (still undecided on lsd or locking) but during the the time that I've been saving, I have also done a little research into other options:

    - I've been offered a transfer case exchange for 1.8k with locking internals (umming and ahhing over this, would save a lot of headache but the appeal of uprated bits from Ashcroft is quite appealing and would still need to find an activation method)

    - onebob's American actuator looks solid but I'll ask a few more questions to him (haven't quite figured out how to reply to two different people in one post)

    Regards

    Lyhoon

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Do not go the Ashcroft Transmissions. I do and it hurts!!
    Can you shed some light on this?

    What set up did you go with and if you don't mind, what was the ball park on $$$.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by onebob View Post
    Hey onebob!

    I've been googling so many different combos of keywords but can't find the manufacture's site.

    Any chance you can link me to it?

    Also curious about what the magic button looks like in your cabin?

    I read a 2015 post on the forum where you had mentioned you had just purchased it and were waiting delivery. The person you were responding to mentioned something about his setup utilising the sls' compressor.

    What's your setup like?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyhoon94 View Post
    Thanks roverlord!

    I've been contemplating going down this path as it's become the option that most have suggested.

    Main question I have for this method is how difficult is the retrofit for a beginner with not much prior knowledge? (My thoughts are given I could completely bugger the job, is it better to outsource this and if so, cost between outsourcing the retrofit vs going with Ashcroft internals.

    Currently saving money up to buy all the internals from Ashcroft (still undecided on lsd or locking) but during the the time that I've been saving, I have also done a little research into other options:

    - I've been offered a transfer case exchange for 1.8k with locking internals (umming and ahhing over this, would save a lot of headache but the appeal of uprated bits from Ashcroft is quite appealing and would still need to find an activation method)


    Regards

    Lyhoon
    Personally I'd go ATB centre diff and dog ring, etc for locking internally. That plus Maxi Drive low range gears is what I have on my Defender, and the Disco will eventually be getting similar.

    The ATB makes it a stronger diff, you don't get the backlash you normally have with a normal diff and the ATB automatically takes up for wear.
    It only takes a few spin outs where you forget to lock the open diff to start to really wear the thrust washers behind the open diff planetary gears.


    I think Bohica means we want too much of their gear !
    They are fantastic to deal with. I've picked Dave Ashcrofts brains a few times and he's always been very amenable.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyhoon94 View Post
    Hey onebob!

    I've been googling so many different combos of keywords but can't find the manufacture's site.

    Any chance you can link me to it?

    Also curious about what the magic button looks like in your cabin?

    I read a 2015 post on the forum where you had mentioned you had just purchased it and were waiting delivery. The person you were responding to mentioned something about his setup utilising the sls' compressor.

    What's your setup like?
    The install was in 2012 and possibly they're not making them anymore, I may still have their email address - I'll check. I used an ARB diff locker compressor to supply air and the included ARB diff locker wiring loom to switch the CDL - here's a few pics .....

    Screen Shot 2017-03-23 at 7.05.27 AM.jpgScreen Shot 2017-03-23 at 7.05.44 AM.jpg
    The left rocker switch is the air compressor the centre rocker switch is an isolator to prevent accidental activation of the CDL and right rocker switch is the CDL on/off, there is a vid I'll link to at the next opportunity ...
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  7. #27
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    I used a T handle push pull cable activating defender output housing. The T handle is located on the transmission tunnel. Looks fine. Never in the way. Easy and dependable activation of CDL. Cheers

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    I used a T handle push pull cable activating defender output housing. The T handle is located on the transmission tunnel. Looks fine. Never in the way. Easy and dependable activation of CDL. Cheers
    At the time back in 2010 > 2012 that was my first option but the Aus and US suppliers weren't doing them any more...
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyhoon94 View Post
    Can you shed some light on this?

    What set up did you go with and if you don't mind, what was the ball park on $$$.
    I was referring to the price of the transfer case 495 pounds plus the options sleeved shaft 130 and LSD 300 It all adds up.
    Then the cost of getting it here.
    Something I will have to consider as my car has 297000 kms on the clock,
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  10. #30
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    What transmission?

    Firstly, I have done the DI shift mechanism mod, it is not as straight forward on an automatic as Roverlord suggests, sweet on a manual.

    Because the DI is a mechanical rod set up and mounted to the top of the gearbox it clashes with the DII cable for the transmission select, or the other way around which ever way you look at it. I wound up making up a new transmission tunnel cover and mounting the Auto shift lever way off to the left, I still have the set up if anyone wants it. Because of the mechanical connection between the trans and the shift lever it also transmits more noise/vibration into the cab.

    If you have a manual the DI should fit well hence the question, 'what transmission', it may be at the bottom of your message but I did not look.

    Good luck

    Cheers

    Mike

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