Hi onebob,
That is where the timing pin goes for locking TDC and is not supposed to have anything in there.
Nick
Check out the attached pic.....although I'm not a mechanic I reckon it looks I'm due for a new Rear Main Seal! interestingly I also see a threaded port (circled) that coincides with the heaviest of the oil contamination - What is it?, is that where a wading plug would normally reside??
onebob
what goes here.jpg
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Hi onebob,
That is where the timing pin goes for locking TDC and is not supposed to have anything in there.
Nick
Have a look to see if the fuel pressure regulator is leaking.
It usually leaks causing a mess down the RHR corner of the motor and drips off the bell housing or gets blown everywhere as you drive.
It also drips into the starter solenoid creating starting problems if left for to long.
Could also be the rocker cover gasket,or the plastic cap at the end of the camshaft.
i would clean off all of the rear of the engine,not just underneath, then keep an eye on it and try and see where the oil is coming from.
THAT'S IT!! - the touch and sniff test reveals that it's definately more diesel than engine oil - thanks a million alien.
I've been suspicious about the fuel pressure regulator for a while now cos sometimes its wet and dripping fuel and other times not! I already have a quote from Roverlord for a new regulator so i'd better act on asap.
onebob
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Got my FPR (ie Fuel Pressure Regulator - thanks Mario) and armed with the tutorial posted by Blknight.aus way back in 2009, and feeling "oh so thoroughly prepared"I embarked on the job.....
Now lets say it's never easy doing a job for the first time and especially so when access is cramped and your hands are the same shape and as nimble as a monkeys foot however despite these setbacks today by nightfall i had managed to get the old FPR offand have resolved to tackle the fitting of the new FPR tomorrow
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LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
The job is done- however i deviated from Blknight's tutorial slightly and used 2 guide pins instead of his 1 (the pins are modified bolts and you can't buy just one! - there's 3 in a pack!) and also an hour of frustration drove me to find a way to deal with the troublesome (abd invisible) bottom bolt. I'll post detailed pics if there's interest.
onebob
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Okay .. I'll edit some video i captured and post some stills from them...
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
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