Thread: D2 Headlining Material Replacement - Grrrr

When I took my head lining off I cleaned the residue off with a wire brush, then too the shell to the motor trimmers and had them supply the material and fit it for around $200, it's not worth mucking around doing it your self it seems since you already spend $160 for fabric then the cost of glue and then time. The motor trimmer also told me most DYI ers have problems in the dips and contours. I think spray contact would have been a better glue for you, light spray both side , when tacky join the surfaces together in working in small sections.
Re the finger marks are you sure the glue is compatible with the foam backing? it could be melting the foam or compressing it so it leaves indentations.

Yes glue is compatible. Finger marks are from thick areas of glue getting onto the uter material and gluing it directly to the board.

THE local trimmer in Adelaide (willshire) wanted $450 with me bringing them the board of of the car hence my desire to diy.

As I said, spray can glue is no good as it will soften in the sun and undo ask the good work.

Bothe the headlining and board should be coated. Use latex gloves and a wall paper roller to get out all creases. The important thing is to let the glue tack off so when you start pushing out creases / stretching the material it actually sticks and does not come away. Do the main first let it dry and then the lips and edges.

Maybe use a mini roller to apply the adhesive? Or this for a spray option
Permatex Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner & Carpet Adhesive

I was tempted to do mine also but chickened out because of the contours in the lining on the D2, had a local guy supply and fit for $150 in Montana Felt with me cleaning,removing and installing.

Originally Posted by whitey56

...had a local guy supply and fit for $150 in Montana Felt with me cleaning,removing and installing.

Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

...the motor trimmers and had them supply the material and fit it for around $200

Adelaide appears to be very exy!!!!


I like the idea of doing the main flat area then the tricky stuff. I had even thought about working across the board rather than along its length as that would avoid the large lips on teh edges needing as much stretching.

That Permatex stuff is again only reliable up to 77 degrees. Not sure it would last too long in the sun?!

Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

When I took my head lining off I cleaned the residue off with a wire brush, then too the shell to the motor trimmers and had them supply the material and fit it for around $200, it's not worth mucking around doing it your self it seems since you already spend $160 for fabric then the cost of glue and then time. The motor trimmer also told me most DYI ers have problems in the dips and contours. I think spray contact would have been a better glue for you, light spray both side , when tacky join the surfaces together in working in small sections.
Re the finger marks are you sure the glue is compatible with the foam backing? it could be melting the foam or compressing it so it leaves indentations.

Hi Mario, can you advise your motor trimmer for that price. PM would be fine.
thanks

G'day Mk1,

Nope Kwik Grip is way to thick for a hood lining. Your could thin it down with some GP thiners but I wouldn't bother.

What you need is the "Sika" brand sprayable contact adhesive from Bunnings (right next to the Kwik Grip on the shelf). It's $23 for a litre (well it was yesterday) and I used 1 1/2 for the wife's Freelander 2 hoodlining I did yesterday. (DON"T use the spray can glue it dosent' set and stays tacky)

I had a 1.4 nozzel handy so I used that and it worked fine. Not much pressure, set just a crack of minumal fan, hold it back about a metre and apply in a swirling patten. It's no harder to clean your gun after than it is for paint.

Best of luck.