The making of a Provent bracket.

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Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

Make sure the epoxy doesn't soften from heat, it can get hot in the engine bay. I would go the bolts and nylocks as a precaution like rangieman suggested.
Re lotus the build quality is probably a bit better than D2/D2a's. LOL

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Humm LOTUS, Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious. I'd like an Elise but. I saw an Exige years ago. It came up to my hip. Nice car.

The epoxy, JB Weld is good up to 287 degrees C. Nylocks are good up to 250 degrees C. I've got nylocks to fasten the Provent to the bracket.

How hot would the engine bay get near the fire wall, exhaust side?

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Originally Posted by Bohica

Humm LOTUS, Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious. I'd like an Elise but. I saw an Exige years ago. It came up to my hip. Nice car.

The epoxy, JB Weld is good up to 287 degrees C. Nylocks are good up to 250 degrees C. I've got nylocks to fasten the Provent to the bracket.

How hot would the engine bay get near the fire wall, exhaust side?

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Hence the original suggestion for rivets. There was an article on here many years ago on the incredible strengths of appropriate rivets, especially on sheer, and perfect as a backup for this type of application. Smaller hole than bolts/nylocks, less visually obtrusive, and not as affected by heat. Cheers

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Almost done, just the paint and pop rivets, as added security.

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Originally Posted by Bohica

Almost done, just the paint and pop rivets, as added security.

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Look great.

Would you believe it. The one and only join that did not have the pop rivet broke!
I'm glad I listened to those who said bolts and or pop rivets!

Thanks
Julian

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Originally Posted by Bohica

Would you believe it. The one and only join that did not have the pop rivet broke!
I'm glad I listened to those who said bolts and or pop rivets!

Thanks
Julian

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Mmmmmm i guess i wont be buying a Lotus [bigwhistle]

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Originally Posted by Bohica

Would you believe it. The one and only join that did not have the pop rivet broke!
I'm glad I listened to those who said bolts and or pop rivets!

Thanks
Julian

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At least you learn from your mistakes, probably the epoxy held initially until oxidation got to the metal surface and it let go. Too bad you didn't work at a TAFE, you could have got one of the students to weld it up for you as assingment.

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Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

At least you learn from your mistakes, probably the epoxy held initially until oxidation got to the metal surface and it let go. Too bad you didn't work at a TAFE, you could have got one of the students to weld it up for you as assingment.

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The expoxy would stop ant oxygen getting to the steel. This was the next day I noticed the failur. Not long enough. Apparently J B Weld is good for filling in holes, but with any vibration it falls apart. A bloke I work with is a former mechaniccal engineer who worked at Tickfords. He offered to weld it, I thought the epoxy would work. Maybe there is a steel epoxy that works.

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Originally Posted by Bohica

.... Maybe there is a steel epoxy that works.

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I'm keen try this Loctite product

I have a couple of welders, both arc and a mig, but sometimes they're inconvenient for some jobs.

A quick Youtube video comparing some epoxy products.
2x Loctites, JB Weld, Gorilla, Devcon FasMetal

The Loctite Metal Concrete wins the test, I thin JB Weld second last. List of results at about the 5:40 mark in the vid.

https://youtu.be/bM4IGweHT2k

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Originally Posted by AK83

I'm keen try this Loctite product

I have a couple of welders, both arc and a mig, but sometimes they're inconvenient for some jobs.

A quick Youtube video comparing some epoxy products.
2x Loctites, JB Weld, Gorilla, Devcon FasMetal

The Loctite Metal Concrete wins the test, I thin JB Weld second last. List of results at about the 5:40 mark in the vid.

https://youtu.be/bM4IGweHT2k

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Bit of a high-jack, but related if you will excuse, given I recommended the rivets to you.
The connector on my RRC rear window demister has come off and being next to glass, is not the best for a soldering attempt. I'm looking for something strong and which will conduct electricity to get the pin back on and working - any of there likely to meet the bill, or any better suggestions from the collected wisdom here?
Cheers Gavin