Just drop the oil then change the gasket. I normally just use gasket in a tube.😊.
We've been away from the Forum for a while, just driving the nice car, servicing it and keeping fingers Xed. Done quite a few 10s of thousands ks without serious incident, so that is good. But there are a few things that need to be done and first one is to seal up the leaky transfer case. Looks to me as though the bottom cover, rectangular, 10 bolts or studs, needs a new gasket. This looks simple enough but before I tackle it some advice please:
1/ Is it as straightforward as it looks? I notice that there are 8 bolts and 2 studs. Is there something inside I need to know about? Or simply undo 'em all and replace the gasket?
2/ Assuming Number 1, above is OK, is there anything I should be looking at once the cover is off? Any wear or impending nasties I can check out?
The drip when everything is warm after a trip is significant and there is often some spray over the rear door so plainly I do need to fix this. Not the only leak, but one thing at a time. Is this a gasket I can get through Bursons or do I need to order it from a LandRover mob?
Thanks in advance for your consideration!
Pete (in Toolondo)
DSC00128 (1).jpg
Just drop the oil then change the gasket. I normally just use gasket in a tube.😊.
Definitely gasket in a tube rather than the LR gasket.
I did mine in my RRC many years ago(I changed my 4 speed to a 5 speed) and remember doing the gasket, with a bit of some gasket sealing stuff that you paint on.
This sealant stuff always worked perfectly for the water pumps or thermostat housings or whatever, but on the two occasions I tried it on the TC cover it did nothing.
So I then tried a gasket in a tube of some brand and let the bead cure a little before I replaced the cover.
This is always the hardest part .. to have the patience to allow the silicone stuff to cure properly as a bead before finishing the job.
And I'm pretty sure that all 10 fixings are supposed to be bolts too! that is no studs and nuts, so at some point someone stuffed something up and just made do with the studs/nut alternative.
But in saying all that, I think your leak is more than just the cover. it appears that the oil is slowly running down to the cover from higher up(maybe an input/output seal).
The image appears to be from the front looking back, with the front housing in the top left corner of the image. The oil is clearly coming from above that and to the right which should be the lower bolt for the trans to TC housing.
Thank you for that - goo it is. As for the possibility of the oil coming from elsewhere I'll take it one step at a time and see if there is a difference. Looks like much more of a job if this doesn't fix it. The oil that drips is a darkish colour. When I drained it a while back it was a horrible rusty brown. How could water get in? Or does the oil go brown with use? Doesn't in the axles.............
I'm afraid I much prefer driving it to working on it, but happy to do what I can in saving $$$$ especially as we are not only way out of town but way, way away from any LR service place.
Thanks,
pete
Edit: Looking again at my own photo I can see stuff I could not see with the torch. Duh - you are quite right: definitely a trail coming from above. I had not been able to see this before. Groan. Have to look harder. Am I right in thinking this will a big job?
The stud is factory.
Leak may be via input seal or via intermediate shaft. Shaft wears away at allow case.
Whatever the case, a leak from above is a box-out job.
Search that intermediate shaft issue. May be worth buying reco'ed and modified box if it's coming out.
**alloy case.
The intermediate shaft O rings is a fairly common source of the leak.
In the handful of repairs I've done for this leak I'm yet to see a damaged housing.
The transfer box needs to be removed to do this and I'd strongly suggest inspecting the centre diff thrust washers.
Lt230se transfer box differential thrust washer inspection.
The plate and any removed housings can be sealed on the bench, new O rings and a nut on the intermediate shaft and finish off with a input seal before refitting.
Ive eliminated these washers in the current ride by fitting an Ashcroft ATB, you need to weigh the value of $$$ spent vs intended use if going this route.
[QUOTE=ballbag;2659338]The stud is factory.
Are these studs for use with a gearbox jack or have they another a purpose on another model, I have wondered why they are there.
The studs are actually there to attach a heat shield to on v8 models.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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