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Thread: D1 CDL Linkage in a D2

  1. #1
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    D1 CDL Linkage in a D2

    I've found someone who has a complete D1 CDL linkage/Lever/housing. From what I've read on a couple of websites if I get the lever & housing it should pretty much just bolt into my D2.

    I'm keen for advice
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  2. #2
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    This was how they used to do it as a factory setup prior to the MY03 arrangement. Because it isn't a cable setup, it does bring noise into the cabin.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

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    Is the D1 an updated version - post 94?
    I have a 94 D1 pre dash update and the CDL linkage is different to the later versions. But if you have the complete housing I believe it should bolt up.

  4. #4
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    Not sure. This is what he's got:IMG_2670.jpg
    IMG_2669.jpg
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    I've found someone who has a complete D1 CDL linkage/Lever/housing. From what I've read on a couple of websites if I get the lever & housing it should pretty much just bolt into my D2.

    I'm keen for advice
    i Fitted a d1 CDL lever into my D2
    The D1 CDL needs to be the same trans as the one its going into. as in , Auto to Auto, or Manual to manual, apparently slight differences.
    To Be honest, it is much easier to pay & fit the properer D2 cable & lever.
    its no 5 min job, pulling the console, drilling all the rivets, removing the hi-low cable, u also need to swap the hi-low lever housing on the top of the transfer OR be prepared to bend the & shape the D1 linkage to hook onto the D2 lever housing. the pin from the D2 hi-low cable is a diff thickness at the hi-low actuator as well. again i just swapped the housing.
    once the CDL fitted & linkages hooked up, u then need to cut a hole in the trans tunnel cover plate, the hole needs to b generous as the cdl top bracket & lever comes slightly above the cover plate, and remember the gearbox/ trans does flex around esp when 4wding, it can rub on the cover plate at times causing vibrations....u then need to seal it up best u can....the hole around the cover plate.... yes it does work very well once fitted, but u can get a little extra cabin noise & vibrations at times.
    If i had my time again....fit the correct cable/cabin lever...
    Best of luck
    89 RRC
    92 RRC Sherwood

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the detailed reply roverv8. I think I'll leave it the D1 lever.

    I did find someone with an electric D2 lever setup. Do u think this is worth looking into? The term electric sounds troublesome to me.
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    Thanks for the detailed reply roverv8. I think I'll leave it the D1 lever.

    I did find someone with an electric D2 lever setup. Do u think this is worth looking into? The term electric sounds troublesome to me.
    The Electric ones were just an old modified windscreen washer motor, some say they were ok, others had them fail, possibly failure rates stopped them being produced?


  8. #8
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    I waited about 6 months for a factory lever, just kept ringing various wreckers until one became available!
    Was also in the process of modifying a standard lever to have the sideways action.
    If you have access to a lathe as I have it was pretty straight forward.
    I also modified a hi/low cable to suit the shorter diff lock cable.

    If you want to have a crack at this I'll put up some more detailed instructions??

    Cheers Lemo

  9. #9
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    Thanks Lemo. I might keep looking for a D2 setup. Thanks for ur advice everyone.
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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