Thread: Boost gauge piping

If you drill into the inlet manifold to fit the take off, the drill should lift out the material removed.

Then start with a tapered tap BUT, coat the tap with grease, the swarf will then stick to the grease and not fall inside the manifold. Once the thread is partially cut screw the tap back out, clean it, re grease it and cut the thread full depth. You may prefer to do this several times, bit by bit. Be careful to keep both the drill and the tap square with the manifold.

As there is plenty of depth in the manifold you should be able to get away with the taper tap and not need a medium or bottoming tap.


Cheers

Mike

Just tee in off one of the boost modulator hoses. Job done!

Originally Posted by SPROVER

Just tee in off one of the boost modulator hoses. Job done!

...... the one that terminates at the wastegate [wink]

Originally Posted by onebob

...... the one that terminates at the wastegate [wink]

And ahhh...make sure you use the right hose off the modulator other wise your boost gauge will read funny buggers. Ask me how i know.

Originally Posted by SPROVER

And ahhh...make sure you use the right hose off the modulator other wise your boost gauge will read funny buggers. Ask me how i know.

do you find the boost readings you get are accurate from there rather than at the manifold?

They are spot on. And exactly the same reading as my nanocom.

Originally Posted by SPROVER

They are spot on. And exactly the same reading as my nanocom.

Luck rather than design...

Your inlet manifold should most of the time read slightly less... parasitic loss through the plumbing..

Originally Posted by nismine01

If you drill into the inlet manifold to fit the take off, the drill should lift out the material removed.

Then start with a tapered tap BUT, coat the tap with grease, the swarf will then stick to the grease and not fall inside the manifold. Once the thread is partially cut screw the tap back out, clean it, re grease it and cut the thread full depth. You may prefer to do this several times, bit by bit. Be careful to keep both the drill and the tap square with the manifold.

As there is plenty of depth in the manifold you should be able to get away with the taper tap and not need a medium or bottoming tap.


Cheers

Mike

thanks Mike. yes I was thinking of doing it that way, maybe pull the spacer off and run a vac in there to be doubly sure. But I would still be nervous

I think I might get a stainless barb and get a family friend tig weld it on to the spacer for me. But the spacer up to the manifold is pretty thin walled. Beyond my welding skills.