Thread: Sway bar disconnect

Shock length will be the limiting factor before swaybars and coils become an issue.

Excessive flex is the realm of posers and does nothing for capability.. a wheel with no weight on it is no more useful than a wheel in the air...

I find the sway bar disconnect most useful on tracks that have lots of dips hollows and raised sections. Helps immensely to stop the side to side rocking motion the D2 gets over very uneven terrain. Yes, it works because you get more up/down wheel travel (on the front) without each side interacting with the other side. Not recommended to be disconnected at highway speeds ... Down right dangerous !!!

A lot of us don't like dislocating suspension, it can be bloody unstable off road.
You'll still get some traction from the unsprung weight of the axle housing and wheel using dislocation cones but it's a nasty way go go IMO.

Remember that if you increase droop you also have to extend brake lines and TC/ABS cables, lower the front cross member, (the driveshaft will hit it) make sure the front driveshaft doesn't bind and has enough plunge (or install a Tom Wood shaft) and if increasing the ride height by 50mm or more you'll have to alter the castor somehow so the damned thing doesn't wander all over the road on the highway. Eccentric bushes will bind the suspension and cranked arms will probably introduce a driveshaft vibration.
Alter one thing from factory settings and a whole raft of other things are compromised and need addressing.

With the ACE equiped D2s selecting low range automatically disconnected the swaybars. But it could also lock the bars if it thought a roll over was going to happen.

Mine doesn't have ACE, but if I'm going off road having a play I remove one of the front sway bar links.

One day I'll buy the J**p TJ disconnects, but I've been saying that for years...

I have a 2" lift, +2" shocks, +2" brake lines, 'adjusted' ABS cables for more length and spaced the front gearbox cross member.

Photo show how it flexes with one front swaybar link removed, rear swaybar still fully connected.

This mob makes them.
Expedition Exchange Incorporated :: Suspension :: SlickRock Fabrication Disco2 Front Swaybar Disconnects (D2DISCONNECT)

I have been thinking , thinking of getting a set.

Regards Philip A.

Does the d2 bar have the same side loading as the d1/rrc?

Originally Posted by rick130

A lot of us don't like dislocating suspension, it can be bloody unstable off road.
You'll still get some traction from the unsprung weight of the axle housing and wheel using dislocation cones but it's a nasty way go go IMO.

Remember that if you increase droop you also have to extend brake lines and TC/ABS cables, lower the front cross member, (the driveshaft will hit it) make sure the front driveshaft doesn't bind and has enough plunge (or install a Tom Wood shaft) and if increasing the ride height by 50mm or more you'll have to alter the castor somehow so the damned thing doesn't wander all over the road on the highway. Eccentric bushes will bind the suspension and cranked arms will probably introduce a driveshaft vibration.
Alter one thing from factory settings and a whole raft of other things are compromised and need addressing.

All valid points for dislocating suspension but the sway disconnect doesn't fall into this category. I've run mine for a lot of years, on std suspension, and have had nil issues with brake and ABS lines. I'm not rock crawling, just touring. At 20-40km/hr speeds on rough tracks the ride is much nicer as the front axle has better articulation and walks the uneven terrain without rocking the vehicle side to side. It is of less/marginal benefit at higher speeds on outback roads.