There is a p clamp on a steel coolant pipe for the oil cooler on the rear lower fuel cooler mount bolt. Other than that no reason why you couldn't.
Hi Guys. I am pulling the head to have a look at the gasket because of a couple of bubbles in the header tank, i have searched the net for hours on how to remove the bottom 2 bolts on the fuel cooler "they all say remove the 4 bolts" now that's ok if you have hands like a "teenage Korean piano player" but i haven't.
I want to lift the head off with both manifolds, FPR and fuel cooler as one, with all hoses and fuel pipe disconnected is there anything not visible to remove i might miss.
The extra weight wont be a problem as i have a small excavator to lift it after removing the bonnet.
Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
There is a p clamp on a steel coolant pipe for the oil cooler on the rear lower fuel cooler mount bolt. Other than that no reason why you couldn't.
It doesn't leak oil, Its sweating power
Re the bottom 2 fuel cooler bolts - you could remove the driver side front wheel and see if you can eyeball the bolt heads and if yes then a 3/8 drive ratchet and socket with suitable extensions will do the job. Thats how i did the bottom bolt when replacing my fuel pressure regulator.
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Ok i have finally pulled the head off to find the gasket in good condition and i cannot see anywhere it would pass gas into the cooling system, will check it with a magnifying glass as it will be a small track by the few bubbles i was getting.
Does anyone know if the 15p's cracked as "sierrafery's" 10p he wrote about yesterday in the Paranoid thread.
I did find diesel in the swirl pots on pistons 1,4,and 5, it was bit of a shock as 4 and 5 swirl pots were half full, I now understand how these motors can make engine oil rapidly.
I am tempted clean and check the head for warp and bang a new head gasket in but that could be foolish, I will see my neighbour across the road who is a retired engine builder and did a lot of the soft 10p heads for our local LR workshop years ago, he hates TD5's with a "passion" but is handy for advice.
If it wasn't for the s@#t fight you have with the fuel cooler it's a reasonably easy job unless you round one of the head bolts like i did [what a poor excuse for a head bolt they are].
This is the first time i have been inside a alloy head common rail diesel so sorry for the dumb questions, the photo of 4 and 5 pots shows about 6 to 8 mm of diesel sitting in the swirl cavity, i have add a small amount of milk to show up in the photo better, has anyone seen this much in a piston before and is it solely from the injector washer or can the injectors dribble like the old style units.
The old injector washers show sign of a carbon track on some.
Thanks for any help.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
If you pulled the injectors before you pulled the head then the diesel will be from the fuel gallery into combustion chamber , normal, the head only has to warp a fraction for bubbles to occur and can also have gasses track between the gasket layers making it hard to spot, make sure you use new head bolts and worthwhile pressure testing the head
Thanks guys, it was wet in 1,4&5 cyls and damp in the other two, that makes sense about the fuel draining when i pulled the injectors first.
I have cleaned the head up with 2000 grit, my thinnest feeler gauge is .0015 which wont fit under the straight edge anywhere, i also checked the valves and seats with the metho trick no leaks at all.
I'm tempted to put the head back on "as is" as it doesn't look like it's done the shown 270ks.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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