Thread: How do you reach the darned Crank position sensor

Wouldn't be bothering with the cps Phillip , more likely fuel related , did the old seal come off when you did the fuel filter?, does sound a bit like the copper inj washers

BTW no increase in oil level and oil beautifully clean.

I feel unsure about the fuel filter as it only started since I changed it. I wondered if the little Oring/washer in the middle is not sealing, as the fuel pump screams every now and then. Bearmach brand.

Hmm I have a set of new LR orings and washers as spares , but this came on so suddenly that I doubt it could be it. Injector durations are all within about 3%. It has only done it today and once a couple weeks ago just after I changed the filter. Otherwise runs just beautifully.
I cleaned the connector of the CPS by spraying it from above with contact cleaner but hit and miss as impossible to get close.

Regards Philip A

If your engine runs fine once started it is unlikely to be the CPS. However it can be accessed more easily the more you can lower the transmission. It is on the top of the bell housing, i don't think it is in the middle but just to the drivers side. It is located with one screw i believe.

Is the back of the car covered in diesel? Could be the fuel lines on the pump. It might be worth testing your car under load when it is running, like up a hill with reasonable throttle on. If it is fuel related you'd imagine it would become obvious and register a drive demand problem in the ECU.

I'm assuming you've checked your MAF and MAP sensors. Might be worth checking the MAF readings to make sure they are not strange, and clean the MAP sensor. Long shot though, but who knows simple problems are more easily fixed.

Another long shot, undo the drain on the bottom of the fuel filter and let some fuel come out, prime the fuel system using the 5X ignition key procedure and see how you go.

I found the easiest way was from under the car reaching up. It's held in by a single 8mm head bolt. Unplug it before removing the bolt. It will need a wiggle to remove from the bellhousing as the O ring holds it fairly tight.

[QUOTE BTW no increase in oil level and oil beautifully clean.


The o rings seal the fuel from the oil , the copper washers seal the combustion from the fuel galleries, one can go without the other going as well

Another long shot, undo the drain on the bottom of the fuel filter and let some fuel come out, prime the fuel system using the 5X ignition key procedure and see how you go.[/QUOTE]


Ign on , pump the acc pedal 5x


[QUOTE=kelvo;2694478]I found the easiest way was from under the car reaching up. It's held in by a single 10mm bolt.


Usually 8 mm bolt head Kelvo

Originally Posted by discorevy

Usually 8 mm bolt head Kelvo

Just gone and checked, you're correct. I keep my old CPS and small 8mm spanner in the cubby box.

I've corrected my other post

Originally Posted by PhilipA

as the fuel pump screams every now and then. Bearmach brand.


Regards Philip A

You are having the classic symptoms that they develop after a short time. Those cheap pumps are a numbers game, hit and miss, some will do it some will give a few years quietly. VDO is the only pump to go for these days But they do cost a lot more.. You might get away with replacing the fuel filter and doing a purge a few times, but cavitation and bush noise I'm afraid might be a thing you will have to put up with, just turn the radio up.

Hi Mario, I was less than clear I think.
The fuel pump is AFAIK original.
The Fuel Filter is Bearmach.
I compared it with a Mahle this morning and I note the centre gasket of the Bearmach is slightly lower compared to the outer gasket. I saw this when I fitted it and wondered whether it would leak.
Also the Mahle has a restrictor under the centre hole which the Bearmach doesn't.
I will fit the Mahle filter today and see if there is a difference.
Regards Philip A

PS I have a VDO pump as a spare for when the pump goes silent.