Do you have EGR still fitted.
Check turbo and intercooler hoses for Delamination and secure.
A couple of days ago, the disco seemed to be driving fine and then didn't! On the nanocom, the turbo pressure is lucky to be getting 0.02. Waste gate seems to be opening. Is this a problem with the waste gate opening too early? Starts and runs normally, just now go. Any advise would be greatly appreciated
Do you have EGR still fitted.
Check turbo and intercooler hoses for Delamination and secure.
EGR blanked. Will check hose. Cheers
What Strangy said, plus, you say the wastegate seems to be opening. More important, is it closing?
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
From what I can gather the waste gate is on it's stops. How should I check it? Would by passing the modulator help?
Nope, the modulator doesn't work to keep it closed like you might think, until high pressure there is no difference between modulator and no modulator basically. So if you aren't generating 1bar then it suggests waste gate is stuck open, or turbo vanes are missing.
Take off the heatshield, undo the two nuts holding the actuator and then you can move the gate with no pressure. It's pretty easy to get back on afterwards but the actuator does exert a good bit of force, so you should be able to tell if the gate is stuck open, it won't be subtle.
If the actuator isn't tight then it will be that gone.
The next likely cause is a leaking pipe or popped off. The inlet manifold side is a bit prone to popping off, especially if you have removed the EGR as some of the kits the pipe is probably 1" shorter and doesn't have the step for the pipe to lock against.
In fact, check your pipes first![]()
Fixed! Nothing like over looking the obvious. The adaptor between the hose and inlet manifold was lose. Thanks for your help
I went for a drive with the Nanocom active and found that my boost pressure was barely getting above 0.3 bar....whats typical for the TD5?
I also noted that my engine temperature was getting up around 91 whilst driving and 97 stationary, and am wondering if removing the EGR will improve this
Can't help with turbo pressure, but!
Signs pointing to failed/failing viscous fan hub.
At 97°C, and idle, your aircon fan should come on too.
There are checks you can do on the viscous fan hub: with the engine hot, and initially off!, use something to hold the fan. I use some well padded gloves, others like to use a rolled up paper. Hold the fan so that it can't spin.
Get an assistant to start the engine. If the engine is hot, the fan will try it's best to turn over and you will start to feel resistance from the fan to try to turn. if this happens your viscous hub is probably fine.
If it doesn't give any rotational force at all, and in fact you can turn the fan the opposite direction, then almost certainly it's stuffed.
Can't remember at what temp the viscous is supposed to start locking up, but if it's cold, it shouldn't give any resistance. As it heats up it starts to lock .. or is supposed too!
Do you have a fan hub spanner? if not, having one is recommended. From memory I think they're the 36mm version.
I have a D1 and a D2, so I got a spanner(off ebay) with one 32mm end and the other end is 36mm. It works, but is harder to use than the one my brother recently got from Paddocks that is 36mm only, but with the longer handle.
if you only need the D2 spanner size, I'd highly recommend the Paddock version just for the better handle design(ie. less likelihood for knuckle scraping).
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
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