D2 TD5 engine immobilised

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Originally Posted by workingonit

The D1 leaks around the 'T' seal in the rear crank bearing journal, does the TD5 have this same issue?

steve_a, if I can get the BCU I will consider sending it to you, unless someone more 'worthy' [smilebigeye](read more highly skilled) comes along and says they definitely can rejig the device. Sierrafrey says it can be done but not by him (I suspect he is deliberately under rating his skills set), so get cracking steve, we're depending on you! [biggrin]Pity to see the control units go to trash. Are there any after market companies making new control units (ECU/BCU etc) for D2's?

I did wonder if for example whether black box nanocom are purely software focused, or they also design/manufacture their hardware, and whether BCU recovery/re-chipping or what ever could be a new avenue.

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They don't have the same kind of T seal as the old diesels, they have fancy smancy gasket which is a pain to stay in position so it leaks a lot just the same :)

A non-critical unit like the BCU is commercially viable but would NOT be cheap due to the tiny run you'd do on the boards and development cost. At a guess you are probably looking at investing $60k in software/hardware development and then probably $300 per board and casing. Given you'd probably sell around 300 say in the next 10 years that means you need to charge about $500 per BCU to break even, probably more to account for the drips and drabs of it coming in. I don't imagine a lot of people would be wanting to pay $500 to $1000 for the BCU.

Now the ECU and SLABS fall into safety critical systems, so if you do a replacement for them you need to factor in the testing and insurance. They also contain a fair bit of IP (the BCU is pretty much a simple beast), so development would skyrocket, think 3 man years and massive issues for insurance and underwriting. Could you even get the ECU underwritten for sale? This may fall foul of emissions.... So, ball park figure you'd be looking to charge about $3000 for a SLABS or ECU unit at least.

My insurance for the work I do is $8k per year, it would probably be more like $80k per year if I did those commercially. If the ECU or SLABS fails and someone dies then the maker is almost certain to be sued - the likelihood of being found at fault is near 100% (even if you aren't!) so the insurance goes up accordingly.

Thanks Tinggu. Not too much of a hardship, not my daily driver (yet) and was a risk thought worth taking - just not paid off as handsomely as I thought, but always better starting from a low cash base if things don't go to plan. I'm getting a nanocom when I get hold of the vehicle again. Trouble in my case is likely the EKA was changed sometime in the past and not passed on to subsequent owners. Key entry fails as a result, followed on by ill will towards the vehicle, but gradually resolves down to ill will against the alarm system and its eventual decommission. Owners should check that they know their EKA's before the ABC's start flowing [smilebigeye]

steve_a, maybe they should have been called Leak Rovers, or Leaks Allovers. I guess there are enough old BCU units around to negates fresh manufacture and avoid legal issues. Wonder if people have run such engines from laptops, then walk away with the computer and code when parked.

OK, the vehicle is up and running, registered and parked back at home. The son drove it home so I still can't comment on performance. Major expense was replacement BCU, fuel block assembly, and wheel speed sensor. Some fuses needed replacing, some earthing issues resolved, indicator lights fixed etc.

Leigh the garage owner said head gaskets on the D2 usually end up replaced about the 150,000km mark due to the plastic pins, so at 271,000 the vehicle has likely been done, but not guaranteed. I should take the sump off and check the oil pump is secure. Leigh is aware that the BCU can be hacked back to life as Sierrafery indicates.

So steve_a, where do you want the old BCU sent?

Curious, the D1 has one sliding cupholder tray up front; the D2 has two sliding units, front and rear seats. D3 and D4 have? Does the 'D' actually stand for drink- holders?

Finally got to take the vehicle for a run. Hard not to compare it to the D1 (or my old 6 cylinder naturally aspirated Troop Carrier). And maybe I was expecting too much from an extra cylinder in the D2.

In terms of performance:
- no apparent turbo lag compared to the D1. Maybe boost is introduced more subtly?
- seems to pick up ok
- no indication of torque converter lock up at any stage. Not saying it isn't happening, just didn't feel any drops in revs like you do with the D1 when it hits about 76kmph and locks.
- temp gauge sits a little above half way and not moving regardless of doing 80kmph or 120kmph. Was a bit alarmed at the gauge reading at first, as the D1 only sits at a third.
- 80kmph and revs are about 2,100, give or take
- seemingly slowish rise to 100kph and beyond
- 120kmph and revs are 3,000, give or take
- I started to push to 130kph but not really a lot of power left I felt. Impression it would do it, and maybe a bit more, but very slowly. Reading some threads, it sounds like it needs some performance programming (and then a bigger torque converter, variable turbo, larger intercooler etc). This top end is not what I expected from my first drive of a modern computer controlled 5 cylinder 4x4. All my D1's (including one that is nearly 600,000 on the clock) and the Troopy all feel the same, maybe not in terms of acceleration, but for practical purposes (for like overtaking road trains) all top out about 130 ish and leave your heart in your mouth as you have a stare off with the cows in the crates as you slowly pass.
- got the impression the speedo was not keeping up with the increasing rate at which the scenery was flying past.[bigrolf]
- overall impression is that it is running as might be expected being a first drive.

Real test of perceptions will be a drag between my best D1 (all stock) and the D2. Presumably the D2 will pull away much quicker to top speeds.

Servicing may make some difference ie a new filter in the auto box.

Other general stuff:
- when parked, with engine off but key in position 2, or when engine on and just idling, I can hear a high pitched whistle from around the tank area, assuming this is the fuel pump in the tank. Should I be able to hear it?
- seating, I really don't like at all compared to the D1. The D2 is too high both front and rear - extra height was not an option was it - is there and adjustment handle I'm not seeing? Wonder if D1 seating (the front at least) can go into the D2. Would hate to be an adult or tall kid seated in the back; eye line for me ends up at the sill of the roof and I'm average height. With the D1 my view is more to the centre of the window.
- the engine has a nicer burble to it compared to the D1. If you are at idle in neutral and pep the peddle there is a little turbo whistle at the end of the rev decline (manual drivers must love this).
- the extra 200mm or so of boot space (coach length) is useful for sleeping in the vehicle in bad weather. Always resented that LRover in the D1 gave this room away to a poxy rear bar.
- speaking of rear bar...PLASTIC!! Has had a few hits and lots of cracks, drivers rear light set now won't hold in its setting properly.
- the mechanic said that the engine and transmission drain plugs were not tight and probably would account for quite a bit of oil coating the underside (which I tried to degrease before giving it to him [bighmmm] - he said he could smell the degreaser, cheeky...). Is there a thread strength issue in the plug holes like I believe where an issue in some diff housings in some LRovers ie tighten the plug as normal only to find the thread gives?

My D3 has 8 cup holders so maybe :)

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

My D3 has 8 cup holders so maybe :)

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Well, there goes the idea that it may be a successive power of two...unless your talking pairs of cup holders, then 4 fits.

That means a D4 should have 8 pairs of cup holders.

From the posts on here, a D4 NEEDS 8 cup holders...[bigwhistle]

I've always thought there should be cup holders under my LRovers, given the amount of time spent there[bigsad]

Lets say an extra chassis brace under the vehicle, a replica of the dash, containing the sliding cup holder (for a cup of course), ashtray (place to store bolts while doing the repair), radio, aircon (essential), and hazard switch (when things aren't working and people should stay away).

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Originally Posted by workingonit

I've always thought there should be cup holders under my LRovers, given the amount of time spent there[bigsad]

Lets say an extra chassis brace that is a replica of the dash, containing the sliding cup holder (for a cup of your fav), ashtray (for spare coin, place to store bolts while doing the repair), radio of course, aircon (essential), and hazard switch (when things aren't working and people should stay away).

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MAGNETIC CUP HOLDER | eBay

[biggrin]

[QUOTE=bee utey;2720103]MAGNETIC CUP HOLDER | eBay

[biggrin][/QUOTEHi, Regarding previous pages on Car immobiliser can I reset my EKA with nanocam to 1 1 1 1.