Thread: Nanocom User Error

try going in to bcu , settings , instrument pack , make sure you haven't changed it from diesel to petrol , ditto turned off trc , fix it , write settings , see how you go

It's not user error it's some nanocom glitch as it used to have a mind of it's own in relation with the BCU, they all do it, usually disable the TC warning, set the vehicle to petrol and enable SLS, etc without any request... that's how they work

Originally Posted by sierrafery

It's not user error it's some nanocom glitch as it used to have a mind of it's own in relation with the BCU, they all do it, usually disable the TC warning, set the vehicle to petrol and enable SLS, etc without any request... that's how they work

Thanks, I'm not losing my mind. I had to reset it to diesel and I wondered why.

I've gone into the Nanocom, Valeo BCU, settings, instrument panel, tabbed across to the right and there below 'gulf' and 'police' there is 'HDC' and 'TRC' both with No. I've set them to yes and know the TC light is back.
I guess that last night I've thought that HDC and TRC are some whole of vehicle setting like gulf or police.

I have got myself into so much trouble playing with Nanocom I'm almost too scared to even plug it in.

Currently the only thing not working is the flash of lights when I lock/unlock and it's going to stay that way rather than have an immobilised motor etc again.

Mutter mutter mutter!

Regards

Mike

I'm glad you guys posted this and also glad for the rest of the "I accidentally did this in Nanocom and now my car won't start" posts on here.

I had the same things today, compounded by knowing that a previous owner had replaced my BCU.. Basically this made me suspicious that things would be incorrect already.

I went poking around in the BCU with my Nanocom trying to set up a new key (no luck, cheap bad key I suppose). But then I thought i'd check the other options and found that the car alarm and immobilisers were turned off.

'That's bad' thinks I, so change them to ON after reading the options in the Nanocom pdf guide to what the BCU does.

Then I had the drama of the car not recognising my (working) key to lock it, I also locked myself IN the car (deadlocked/'superlocked'), panicked a bit and changed some other stuff.. Just made a mischief basically.

Unusually for computers it appears that time cures all things.. It eventually 'remembered' everything and is now working fine.




Points for new users that I've just picked up from this forum (some of this might be heresay or not true):

- Get your EKA code BEFORE messing around with anything. This is read only unless you choose to change it there and then. Note it down or take a photo of it. This way you can get back in if you mess up the key fob programming. Refer owners manual for how to use the EKA code. Apparently the EKA numbers update in realtime (I.e. when you change it here it saves instantly) but why risk it.

- It would be wise to format an SD card and back everything up before you start, so you can see all your original settings if FUBAR happens. Plenty of posts here about which SD cards (it's picky apparently).

- When you are in the BCU menu's in Nanocom, it will disable the dash even if the engine is on. The guages will go to 0, the fuel light will come on, no warning lights will work. Don't worry - you've not broken your car - just exit the module in Nanocom and these will reappear.

- When you 'Write' the new changes to the BCU, there's a high likelihood that the Nanocom has just set your car to be MANUAL and PETROL (mine is a TD5 Auto). Refer SierraFerry's post above, also about HDC, TRC. Various people mentioned this, seems to be a bug. So you'll need to correct this and/or keep an eye out for it.

- On the subject of this, because the 'Write' button is on the main menu for the BCU module, i'd assume that it writes every single setting to the BCU. So make sure they are all good before clicking this or you could confuse the life out of yourself bearing in mind the previous point.

- Because of the above, even if you've been diligent and have been writing a list of what you've changed, you might get caught out.

- After writing your changes to the BCU, turn off the car for 2 minutes. One user said you should hear a click which is the BCU saving it, although I'm not sure how that works. But waiting a few minutes (and a brief prayer) did seem to work for me and the car 'remembered' the settings.

- If none of the above makes much sense and you feel you've broken your car and the world is ending, chin up, go for a walk, make sure you've had some food.
It will be ok just needs some perspective.
If this doesn't work try people nearby on Facebook if you need a quick answer or a good samaritan.




Disclaimer..
I'm rehashing lots of info already shared in this thread and also likely spreading myths here, but my intention is just to help if someone has a bad experience with this and needs a pointer. There's a lot of quite important hints/tips on the forum but they are spread around so I just wanted to centralise.

The people here who have already commented know far better than I do, I'm just glad to have a working car back!

Originally Posted by Arnoooooooooold

- Get your EKA code BEFORE messing around with anything. This is read only unless you choose to change it there and then. Note it down or take a photo of it. This way you can get back in if you mess up the key fob programming. Refer owners manual for how to use the EKA code. Apparently the EKA numbers update in realtime (I.e. when you change it here it saves instantly) but why risk it.

I'll tell you. Mine was set to 10 10 08 10. Break the bloody key trying to use it when you forget where you are up to and thus have to go through the process over and over..... Grrr... So now it is 01 01 01 01, and now I've never had to use it since. Of course.

Well my EKA was a bit irrelevant as the previous owner(s) had helpfully disabled all of the alarm and immobiliser functions 🤣

Which makes me suspicious that more shenanigans are going on, like unplugged sensors or battery draining stuff etc.

One question I do have - does it matter if the VIN in the BCU doesn't match the ECU? I assume not as my car had been driving fine up to now with the newer donor BCU not being changed.