Thread: Three Amigos

Originally Posted by Leo109

Hi All,

Lemo, sorry if I seem to be hi-jacking your thread, but it seems like you may have finished with it?
I too have been reading all I can find about Option B, including the excellent 'The Good Oil' tutorial and pics.

I've had the occasional visit from the three friendly Mexican fellows but not to the point of being annoying or dangerous ('tho I guess you only have to 'need' ABS once while the lights are on for it to be potentially dangerous?...)

But before I launch into the process, could I ask a couple of (probably asked before) questions please?

1. What was option A exactly? Is this the ABS module disassembly to try to repair the dodgy PC board? Or something more? Yes option A is a repair of the PCB.

2. I take it option B will only work if the two switches in the assembly (SVS?) are still working properly in the first place? Yes If that's true, and the amigos appear only infrequently, is it reasonable to think the SVS are generally OK and it's just the intermittent poor connection that's the problem? Most likely, but a new switch assembly is cheap. Or am I better off replacing the SVS module and be done with it (as well as the Option B mod)? Yes I personally carried out option B on a new SVS.

3. Lastly, I'm planning to do a full brake fluid change soon anyway . (Only had the vehicle a few months.) Is it necessary to do the brake bleeding immediately after the Option B job? You don’t need to disturb the brake lines for option B, so no need to bleed the brakes Some seem to imply that no fluid is lost, or air introduced, in the process? Yes this is correct.

4. Some threads about this issue mention also the SLS system. I don't have SLS. Is everything to do with the ABS unit and Option B the same for SLS and non-SLS models. Yes Option B is the same for SLS and non-SLS models.

Thanks for your patience with my 'Td5 Newbie' questions.

see answers in red

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

The only thing SLS in the vicinty is the reservoir??

No reservoir for SLS, but the ACE/Power steering reservoir is next to the ABS module

Originally Posted by Leo109

Hi All,

Lemo, sorry if I seem to be hi-jacking your thread, but it seems like you may have finished with it?
I too have been reading all I can find about Option B, including the excellent 'The Good Oil' tutorial and pics.

I've had the occasional visit from the three friendly Mexican fellows but not to the point of being annoying or dangerous ('tho I guess you only have to 'need' ABS once while the lights are on for it to be potentially dangerous?...)

But before I launch into the process, could I ask a couple of (probably asked before) questions please?

1. What was option A exactly? Is this the ABS module disassembly to try to repair the dodgy PC board? Or something more?

2. I take it option B will only work if the two switches in the assembly (SVS?) are still working properly in the first place? If that's true, and the amigos appear only infrequently, is it reasonable to think the SVS are generally OK and it's just the intermittent poor connection that's the problem? Or am I better off replacing the SVS module and be done with it (as well as the Option B mod)?

3. Lastly, I'm planning to do a full brake fluid change soon anyway . (Only had the vehicle a few months.) Is it necessary to do the brake bleeding immediately after the Option B job? Some seem to imply that no fluid is lost, or air introduced, in the process?

4. Some threads about this issue mention also the SLS system. I don't have SLS. Is everything to do with the ABS unit and Option B the same for SLS and non-SLS models.

Thanks for your patience with my 'Td5 Newbie' questions.

All good mate!
Did the option B with a new shuttle valve and hasn't returned

My amigos where intermittent also similar to you, just do all the testing first to rule out wiring faults etc. but more then likely the dodgy circuit board in the module like others have posted.

Cheers Lemo

Originally Posted by Leo109

1. What was option A exactly? Is this the ABS module disassembly to try to repair the dodgy PC board? Or something more?

The failure is caused by cracked solder joints in housing that connects the harness to the shuttle valve switches.

Option A solves the issues by reheating the failed joints until the solder reflows.
Option B solves the issue by bypassing the failed joints.

Both mods require the same amount of modulator disassembly to perform.

Option A as described on the link Pedro posted has a bad reputation because it only identifies one of the two potential solder failure points.

When my brother had the problem on his D2 a couple of years ago he did the Option A fix, but discovered that the continuity was still intermittent.
After a bit of investigation he found that there is a second set of joints buried near the mounting pin that had failed.

ABS Modulator Option A additional fix | DiscoTD5.com

Option A does requires a bit more care and effort due to the required removal of potting compound to access the joints but it is just as effective as the option B.

Hi guys i bought a MY2000 Discovery 2 last week. It came with the three amigos illuminated. The seller said that Land Rover had told him he needed a new ABS pump and four new wheel sensors. I bought a Autel ML619 scantool off Amazon. I tested it out today. It told me that the RHR speed sensor output was low and also irratic. The tool cleared the codes and a retest said no faults. A did a road test and still no lights came on. Happy days. The tool was $165 from Auto Centre through Amazon AU.