Thread: Coolant Temp and Low alarm

There is already a coolant temp gauge in the D2 But it is pretty much useless because when it starts to show you that the engine is over heating it is usually too late anyway So an accurate gauge is pretty much essential and I agree that this takes precedence over a low coolant alarm.
An aftermarket temp gauge is pretty cheap to fit, I have one of those "Scangauge" gizmo's from 4WDsupercheap fitted to my OBD2 port that gives me an accurate temp reading along with lots of other readings as well for about $70.
I have also had a Redarc low coolant alarm fitted for about $200.
Having both fitted pretty much has me covered in case of a problem But if you can only get one fitted I would go for a temp gauge first

Note - these do not actually measure coolant temp - they measure engine metal temp. The actual temp is not relevant as you have to go through a specific set up procedure to determine what temp on the gauge is normal and then you watch for changes to that temp.

For example - I have the TM 2 Combo - bought from David Jones (AULRO Member)
Enginesaver Low Water Alarms
Ph 07 47766334
Mobile 0427159668

My engine has an 85 degree thermostat and with the engine at operating temp the TM2 reads 72 degree (note - not 85). The sensor is bolted to one of the inlet manifold bolts (not the thermostat housing as the coolant distorts the temp).

So I know that at normal temp my TM 2 will read 72 so I have the alarm set at about 87. If you have a normal aftermarket coolant temp gauge you will see that with the thermostat opening and closing (coolant temp rising and falling) the actual temp of the metal in the engine remains relatively constant as it should.

On really cold days the engine metal temp is a degree or two colder and on really hot days it is only a degree or two hotter - on hot days at idle in traffic temp may get up to 80 (coolant a lot hotter)

The my low coolant alarm is a sensor in the top radiator hose - you need the connector that goes into the hose.

I have it fitted since 2010 and would not be without it,

Garry

Originally Posted by Tombie

...

Drop the coolant in an unnoticed manner and the temp gauge won’t move at all..

Yes, but an accurate coolant gauge would show that cos the ECT will start rising, mine grew with 5*C when only about 1.5l of coolant was lost just for that... if you drive it at 115*C many hours without knowing that it can be full of coolant cos the injector seals and the head gasket will suffer... also the increased temperature under the bonnet will affect the wirings and connectors too, they'll all get ripened in time

Thanks for the responses
I'll get both eventually but as I just had a episode with the oil cooler bung and dropped all the coolant I'll get the low alarm now and the temp next pay

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Yes, but an accurate coolant gauge would show that cos the ECT will start rising, mine grew with 5*C when only about 1.5l of coolant was lost just for that... if you drive it at 115*C many hours without knowing that it can be full of coolant cos the injector seals and the head gasket will suffer... also the increased temperature under the bonnet will affect the wirings and connectors too, they'll all get ripened in time

The Ford Barra engine regularly runs at 118c under hard conditions (alloy on cast)...

And NO. The Temp probe didn’t rise at all the when coolant was dumped... which gives the warning

A cooling system that is full, pressurised, and flowing will not suffer the damage you claim. Agree extended elevated engine bay temperatures will shorten life of components due to heat soak but we’re talking some of the time, not all of the time.


The problem is people equate 100c = Boiling = Bad.

Reality is, only at sea level... at atmospheric pressure.

Originally Posted by Lemo

Thanks for the responses
I'll get both eventually but as I just had a episode with the oil cooler bung and dropped all the coolant I'll get the low alarm now and the temp next pay

Get one that does both

Originally Posted by Tombie

Get one that does both

I completely agree with that^^^ ...

Originally Posted by Tombie

The Ford Barra engine regularly runs at 118c under hard conditions (alloy on cast).

while i sustain that keeping rubber o-rings for long exposed to 115*C will make them let fuel in oil on a long run, i know from my own and other's experience... is that Ford Barra a EUI/PD diesel engine by any chance as to be compared with a Td5?

Viton o’rings will happily operate to 230c.
Used in systems running well above 130c for extended periods

The Barra is a 4l 6cyl Petrol engine and with very few tweaks is good for 1000hp turbocharged and intercooled.