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The the big points for the TW shaft is that the DC coupling has a higher operating angle, the centering bearing is greasable and is much stronger than the LR version, and the yokes have better operating angles too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slunnie
The unis are comparable in strength, unless you use standard 1300 unis (not Land Rover) when you rebuild the stock shaft, and I'm guessing most do.
As mentioned in previous posts I got my driveshaft rebuilt by a tailshaft specialists with grazeable uni's and believe it is better than new - have not had any issues since - gets greased at every service.
Couldn’t get your link to open, but pulled mine last night and the unis are stuffed too. Mario (roverlord) has HD uni’s. Cost about the same as the no name brand I had previously replaced with from local auto place (which only lasted 40k km). He Also has new shafts for pretty reasonable price.
I too have a 2 inch lift, but had them fail before and after lift. (Same uni joint)
When I greased my unis I used Marine wheel bearing grease, it seems to have better corrosion properties.
Read post #5 on why some marine greases are ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares
It all depend on the soap/thickener used. ;)
Some just use a lithium complex soap and call themselves marine grease!!??
Some use aluminium complex, which has slightly better water washout properties, but calcium sulfonate complex is best, IMO.
Just taken prop shaft off ,is there any way to drive LR with out it drive to front wheels,
Lock you r transfer case and you will be able to drive the rear wheels. CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by david7307
how do i lock transfer case?
Found how to do it, now i have lights showing up abs, tc, but the old girl is back on the road 😀
Good stuff. Just go easy on take off...the rear donut won't like full stick 100 per cent of the torque.
Cheers