Thread: 10p to 16p disco 2

Hi Chidz
If you don't know the order of the injectors write down the letters/numbers that are written on the top of each injector and also note which cylinder you put them into ( they should be green top injectors, do you know why they were removed?), use genuine washers and o rings when fitting them . it'll run without coding the injectors, but get someone with nanocom or similar to code them using what you wrote down
Would be worth while fitting a new water pump and oil cooler o rings as well as fuel cooler o rings ( all viton ) before refitting if you're planning on keeping it ( I take it you've already checked the oil pump bolt:-), also replace the vacuum pump oil return line and fit new clamps before fitting the alternator.
Once it's back in , it'll run fine as is ( will have a bit more torque due to the different designed internals and higher injection pressures) it would benefit from the eu3 intercooler.
Let us know how it goes
Welcome

Originally Posted by discorevy

Hi Chidz
If you don't know the order of the injectors write down the letters/numbers that are written on the top of each injector and also note which cylinder you put them into ( they should be green top injectors, do you know why they were removed?), use genuine washers and o rings when fitting them . it'll run without coding the injectors, but get someone with nanocom or similar to code them using what you wrote down
Would be worth while fitting a new water pump and oil cooler o rings as well as fuel cooler o rings ( all viton ) before refitting if you're planning on keeping it ( I take it you've already checked the oil pump bolt:-), also replace the vacuum pump oil return line and fit new clamps before fitting the alternator.
Once it's back in , it'll run fine as is ( will have a bit more torque due to the different designed internals and higher injection pressures) it would benefit from the eu3 intercooler.
Let us know how it goes
Welcome

Thanks for that,

Yes they are green tops I have taken photos of the numbers while installing... yeah I do plan on keeping it after I’ve spent all this blood, sweat, and tears/beers on old “greeny” as she is known (she’s disco dark green, and yes definitely a she) yes if someone has a nanocom locally I’d love the help from someone in the know, and throw a few beers or whatever their way! The injectiors were removed because the head was recon, and he was trying to make money by parting out the injectors which no one brought in the end luckily for me he kept them with the motor in the end. It’s already had New o rings etc fitted so that’s good. Btw I’ve checked the bolt twice

Anyone have a eu3 cooler for sale?? Also I need to change the fuel pressure reg I think so help with that would be handy also??

Cheers all

If you use the 16P engine with the 10P ECU it will run but I understand it wont work well as the injector pressures are different.
Might be best to get an NNN Ecu and use a EU3 map.
I think the MAF wiring is different as is the throttle potentiometer these are not insurmountable but things to consider.
In reading horror stories accross the world about TD5s not running properly it offen comes back to people changing things but not doing it properly.

Originally Posted by Chidz

Hi all,
Long time reader, first time poster so be nice please 😝
I have done a bit of reading about this and had various answers, but I’m wondering if I could get a solid answer...
I have recently acquired a 16p motor (by accident) to replace my 10p which fell victim to the dreaded oil pump bolt failure while the mrs was driving.

Now that I have this complete 16p motor (injectors were removed by seller but don’t know which order to replace them in) what else do I need to make it work in the 10p body?? (If u get what I mean!)

I am also looking at blanking the egr?

Any advice would be much appreciated as I really want to get it going again ASAP

Cheers all

DazzaTD5/Aztec 4x4 (member on here, lives and works in the Rivervale area as a LR type independent) is wrecking a few D2s and D2as at the moment, and will have what you need if you can't locate elsewhere. Ironically, as the reverse, he has just put a 10P in his 04 D2a and sold off the 16P.

Originally Posted by Chidz

Anyone have a eu3 cooler for sale?? Also I need to change the fuel pressure reg I think so help with that would be handy also??

Cheers all

The 16 p fuel pressure reg stays with the 16 p head , but its worth changing the hose that goes from the reg to the front of the head if its even slightly brittle , as its a harder job with the engine in, the other fuel hoses are the same

Originally Posted by discorevy

The 16 p fuel pressure reg stays with the 16 p head , but its worth changing the hose that goes from the reg to the front of the head if its even slightly brittle , as its a harder job with the engine in, the other fuel hoses are the same

I have the problem where my 10p fuel reg has 2 outlets but the 16p head only has one hole which means I will need to get a 16p fuel reg from somewhere.... I am replacing all rubber hoses and the radiator to prevent future problems.

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

DazzaTD5/Aztec 4x4 (member on here, lives and works in the Rivervale area as a LR type independent) is wrecking a few D2s and D2as at the moment, and will have what you need if you can't locate elsewhere. Ironically, as the reverse, he has just put a 10P in his 04 D2a and sold off the 16P.

I did contact him for a few parts previously, even a motor and he said he had none available? I’ll try him again!

You will need the wiring loom from the Ambient Air Temp sensor and a filter box with the sensor , or buy one and fit it.
I don't know where this sensor enters the main loom, so you may have to change something there also.
Regards Philip A