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Thread: Interior plastic trim repair ??

  1. #1
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    Interior plastic trim repair ??

    Hi all,

    has as anybody previously repaied their centre console successfully?

    the D2 plastics are a tad brittle and my centre console is the worse for wear.

    i have sourced another which is in better nick with a lot less cracks however it is not perfect in any means and some of the plastic tabs have snapped off around the electric window switch holder.

    What at type of glue / resin is a good option to repair cracks with and possible glue up some new tabs ( which I will have to fashion up off the old console.

    Also considering using aluminium attached underneath to further strengthen these fragile consoles. Has anybody else done the same?

    cheers Chris

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4runnernomore View Post
    Hi all,

    has as anybody previously repaied their centre console successfully?

    the D2 plastics are a tad brittle and my centre console is the worse for wear.

    i have sourced another which is in better nick with a lot less cracks however it is not perfect in any means and some of the plastic tabs have snapped off around the electric window switch holder.

    What at type of glue / resin is a good option to repair cracks with and possible glue up some new tabs ( which I will have to fashion up off the old console.

    Also considering using aluminium attached underneath to further strengthen these fragile consoles. Has anybody else done the same?

    cheers Chris
    So Chaffy is running around now after it's stint at Leighs? How's it handle?

    All the window control faciae in my vehicles (5) have been broken under previous management. An owner even daisy chain drilled to removed a large part of the lower framework that the facia normally screws into!!

    The D1 and D2 'cubby box-window control panel-gearstick surround' all seem the same. Been tempted to remodel the whole lot in wood or aluminium. Any point putting our heads together?

    If you need some small plastic parts I might be able to 3D print them for you - subject to who does the CAD design work, the most time consuming component; how are your skills?

    I've tried a few glues to put bits of the central radio console back together, but they all seem to fail. The only type I've not yet tried are those that are solvent based, which I assume are like the old airfix glue from my childhood days.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    So Chaffy is running around now after it's stint at Leighs? How's it handle?

    All the window control faciae in my vehicles (5) have been broken under previous management. An owner even daisy chain drilled to removed a large part of the lower framework that the facia normally screws into!!

    The D1 and D2 'cubby box-window control panel-gearstick surround' all seem the same. Been tempted to remodel the whole lot in wood or aluminium. Any point putting our heads together?

    If you need some small plastic parts I might be able to 3D print them for you - subject to who does the CAD design work, the most time consuming component; how are your skills?

    I've tried a few glues to put bits of the central radio console back together, but they all seem to fail. The only type I've not yet tried are those that are solvent based, which I assume are like the old airfix glue from my childhood days.

    Hi Rod,

    Chaffy had been running OK with his new HD Aschroft gearbox and transfer. Took a while for the gearbox to settle in and for the shift to become smoother. I was a bit concerned about temps the gearbox was running up and down the highway. Initial oil change and the one after have not revealed any nasties so hopefully all is well.

    He is regulated to town duties at the moment locked in 4 high whilst waiting for a new front tailshaft. Double Cardon joint flogged out about 5 weeks ago. Waiting on a bomb proof one from APT. Runs a F250 double Cardon joint hopefully it will be worth the wait as it has been a while. Young fella is enjoying driving him around. Running the mighty Sporty to and from work again at the moment.

    Im just a cook no idea on CAD. Thank you for the offer. I wonder if the young fella could code it up, he has a 3D printer on order. Something to look into. Be pretty cool to print up a double din replacement dash facia.

    Cheers Chris

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    [QUOTE=4runnernomore;2792052]

    Im just a cook no idea on CAD. Thank you for the offer. I wonder if the young fella could code it up, he has a 3D printer on order. Something to look into. Be pretty cool to print up a double din replacement dash facia.

    /QUOTE]

    Your approach is good, just like mine - let the youngster buy the gear that you'll get the most use out of!

    My son bought a Prusa brand 3D printer. Took him one and a half days to assemble it, working first time on some sample files. The number of things I've designed and printed I've lost count...printed a tiny gear to fix a FreePlay radio, replaced the broken plastic tongue in a Toyota glove box latch, new body for a hand lens that got trodden on, holder for a rotating laser on a milling machine, centre covers for the D2 alloy rims, etc

    You will need a CAD program for design work. I use FreeCAD and if you want I can give you guys some lessons to get you started. The CAD design is then exported to an 'stl' file. The CAD design process takes up about 99% of over all project time.

    The 'stl' file is then run through a 'slicer' program. Prusa have modified a free program called 'Slicer' and call it 'Slicer PE' (PE=Prusa Edition). Once your project is sliced it is saved as 'gcode'. Process is simple and takes a few minutes.

    You feed your printer the 'gcode' which makes the printer build your project literally in slices. Process is simple, and although printing can take a lot of time even on moderately sized projects (hours and hours) you go do something else constructive to fill in time.

    Given your clientele I'm sure, as a chef, there are a few you would prefer eat with printed plastic utensils that with stainless steel...

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    It’s good to see others on the same wave length!

    I’ve been looking at my centre console for the last few months and scratching my head.

    A quick cheap fix for me could be remove everything, apply araldite (2 part epoxy) in layers where damaged, wait until dry and apply again, drill out where required, reattach clips and screw in the window regulator panel. Could do the same to the damaged plastic bits on the window regulator panel too.

    But wouldn’t it be nice to remove the whole centre console, recreate it out of balsa/mdf/pine and cover in vinyl. Then laser cut some new window regulator switches while we’re at it too - something similar in tidiness to LRA’s hi-lo lever replacement option from 2015 (pictured).




    In regards to fitting a double din headunit, if you have the money to throw at your problem, you could fit alpine’s iLX-F309

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    [QUOTE=lyhoon94;2792141Could do the same to the damaged plastic bits on the window regulator panel too.

    [/QUOTE]

    Nice finish. Converting the diff stick to electronic function is a bit far for me.

    Another area of concern, at least on the D1, is the plastic radiator grill. Not to mention on the D2 the cracked plastic rear bumper and the cracked under front window plastic weather strip that protects the air intake. Need an industrial sized printer.

  7. #7
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    Just found this UTUBE link to a stereo install mob in Buffalo NY. WOW double din mod looks fantastic 1999 - 2004 Land Rover Discovery II 2 double din dash kit navigation customradio.com Buffalo NY - YouTube

  8. #8
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    You can repair on the underneath with super glue and baking soda,
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    You can repair on the underneath with super glue and baking soda,
    More info please?
    -----
    You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.
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    1999 Disco TD5 ("Bluey")
    1996 Disco 300 TDi ("Slo-Mo")
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    1966 No 5 Trailer (ARN 173 075) soon to be camper
    -----

  10. #10
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    Ive always had a good result with JB weld, although suited to some plastics and not others
    Cheers tt




    D2 2004 TD5 Classic

    --------------------------------------

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