Thread: Front drive shaft

I highly recommend correcting your wheel track with an adjustable panhard rod. It is an extra expense but it will align the uni again so it is only working on a vertical plane not a horizontal plane too. At low speed it doesn't really matter that much, but at highway speeds constantly working on two planes the centre bearing and uni's get hot and flog out.

But yes, I would also recommend either a Les Richmond or Tom Woods front shaft. But I truly believe doing this without correcting the front track to put the diff back central in the car after lifting it (yes by only 50mm) is unwise. Have a look yourself, the front tire sits out further than the rear on the passenger size. Considering the front track is narrower than the rear this is not right.

Others will tell you fitting the larger shaft will solve the problem of having to replace them all the time, especially if you grease them regularly. But it is not solving the fundamental problem.

Originally Posted by fourteen8

After 2 times rebuild finally it broke while the car is moving..

The previous owner of my D2a [standard height] had given most of his invoices to the car yard i bought mine from and they gave them to me, he too had replaced 2 sets of UJ's [fitted by workshops] in fairly quick succession then a few months later there is a invoice for a front shaft from Hardie Spicer for big bucks, that was followed by a invoice for a trans gasket only which to me suggests he replaced the damaged trans sump, there is a battle scar on the chassis so it looks like the shaft had a pretty good rattle around.
I have never replaced a DC but i'm not looking forward to the day when it needs it as they appear a mongrel of a job.

I was thinking about a lift to do a few beach trips but i might just find a set larger tyres, a good tow rope and take a roll of $20's than worry about the front shaft.

Just recently had a APT HD front drive shaft fitted to my D2 after the old double cardinal joint flogged out.
I do a lot of high speed work in the NT up,to 130km for three hours at a time in 30-40 degree heat. I have had my D2 for 6 years now and the last 16 months have been doing the high speed work. Serviced regularly. whole car was fully serviced and checked over before starting the high way work. Had a new gearbox fitted last year with all UNOs checked. Front double Cardinal flogged out without much warning after a service. Lucky for me it did not let go.mheard it growling accelerating away from lights when I was nearly home.

These APT units are are supposed to be bomb proof. Uses a F series double cardinal joint 1350 size, fully greasable. Supposed to be able to support up to 4 inch lift no issues with binding.

So so far so good Done approx 1500km since fitting.

they are exxy but hopefully will be more than worth the outlay.

Cheers Chris

Originally Posted by Jazzman

I highly recommend correcting your wheel track with an adjustable panhard rod. It is an extra expense but it will align the uni again so it is only working on a vertical plane not a horizontal plane too. At low speed it doesn't really matter that much, but at highway speeds constantly working on two planes the centre bearing and uni's get hot and flog out.

A shaft with a DC on one end and a UJ on the other will not be affected by planes of motion like you say. Talk about the DC end first, this joint does not care at what plane or combinations of planes that it works at, it only sees one angle. The UJ will see one angle as well. You have confused yourself because aligning planes is very important with conventional UJ-UJ shafts, however for such shafts as the rover d2, it does not come in to play with the analysis. What matters for a rover d2 shaft is that the differential pinion lines up with the body of the shaft as accurate as possible. You are correct in saying that a lift will move the axle to the drivers side slightly, however how much is this really? 5mm? 5mm change over the length of the shaft is perhaps a change of 0.4 degrees. 0.4 degree change... lets be real.

Originally Posted by Jazzman

Others will tell you fitting the larger shaft will solve the problem of having to replace them all the time, especially if you grease them regularly. But it is not solving the fundamental problem.

The fundamental problem with most d2's (not implying that this is the case with fourteen8's rig) is that these stock shafts are not adequate. Simple as that. Whether this is because they are non-serviceable or because they are next to a whopping great heat source, it does not matter, they are not up to the job, admit that land rovers sometimes have flaws. All you need to do is search the internet and find that most folks have solved their shaft issues by installing a well built aftermarket, serviceable shaft.

Now in saying all that, fourteen8 it appears that you have other issues. I would question the quality of the rebuild jobs that have happened in the past. If the shaft had a defect from the beginning, it would not matter how many times it is rebuilt as it would still self destruct with time.

My recommendation is to first check your lt230 output bearing as this could also be a contributing factor. If all is well and good then get yourself a tom woods shaft and be done with it. grease it regularly and enjoy your discovery. I don't see a front shaft upgrade as a choice, I see it as a necessity. If you decide to keep buying derivatives of the stock shaft then just accept that you are driving a time bomb.

Originally Posted by DieSchnelleKafer

..... I don't see a front shaft upgrade as a choice, I see it as a necessity. If you decide to keep buying derivatives of the stock shaft then just accept that you are driving a time bomb.

I bought a second hand stock shaft, as the previous one was too knackered to be repaired. Now that this one has died, I'lll be using the repair kit to upgrade the double cardan to the improved greasable version. The repair kit was about $150.00. One improvement would be to has a grease nipple for the centre ball joint.

Originally Posted by Bohica

I bought a second hand stock shaft, as the previous one was too knackered to be repaired. Now that this one has died, I'lll be using the repair kit to upgrade the double cardan to the improved greasable version. The repair kit was about $150.00. One improvement would be to has a grease nipple for the centre ball joint.

Stay tuned on this i have a DC shaft pulled apart ATM and am toying with the idea of modding it to greasable centre bearing

Originally Posted by rangieman

Stay tuned on this i have a DC shaft pulled apart ATM and am toying with the idea of modding it to greasable centre bearing

You could drill a hole, with a diameter smaller than the spring, then another one at 90 degrees. I'm not sure if there is room for a grease gun. My old one is is on my desk at work, I'll have a look tomorrow.

The next day.

The part that attaches to the transfer case does not have the room for a grease nipple.

Originally Posted by DieSchnelleKafer

A shaft with a DC on one end and a UJ on the other will not be affected by planes of motion like you say. Talk about the DC end first, this joint does not care at what plane or combinations of planes that it works at, it only sees one angle. The UJ will see one angle as well. You have confused yourself because aligning planes is very important with conventional UJ-UJ shafts, however for such shafts as the rover d2, it does not come in to play with the analysis. What matters for a rover d2 shaft is that the differential pinion lines up with the body of the shaft as accurate as possible. You are correct in saying that a lift will move the axle to the drivers side slightly, however how much is this really? 5mm? 5mm change over the length of the shaft is perhaps a change of 0.4 degrees. 0.4 degree change... lets be real.



The fundamental problem with most d2's (not implying that this is the case with fourteen8's rig) is that these stock shafts are not adequate. Simple as that. Whether this is because they are non-serviceable or because they are next to a whopping great heat source, it does not matter, they are not up to the job, admit that land rovers sometimes have flaws. All you need to do is search the internet and find that most folks have solved their shaft issues by installing a well built aftermarket, serviceable shaft.

Now in saying all that, fourteen8 it appears that you have other issues. I would question the quality of the rebuild jobs that have happened in the past. If the shaft had a defect from the beginning, it would not matter how many times it is rebuilt as it would still self destruct with time.

My recommendation is to first check your lt230 output bearing as this could also be a contributing factor. If all is well and good then get yourself a tom woods shaft and be done with it. grease it regularly and enjoy your discovery. I don't see a front shaft upgrade as a choice, I see it as a necessity. If you decide to keep buying derivatives of the stock shaft then just accept that you are driving a time bomb.

While I understand the point you are making, it doesn't explain why my original uni's lasted 300,000kms (with no lift) and the rebuilt one lasted 20,000kms (with 2" lift). It was rebuild and balanced by a pro (not mechanic a prop shaft specialist) with Hardy Spicer uni's and centre bearing. Twice in fact as we though it may have been build incorrectly or had defect parts the first time. After the second time they took my car for a day and measured the angles, i have the report somewhere but can't remember what they were.