Do you have a compressor?
Do you have a blower gun/nozzle/duster doodad attachment?
If yes to both, use blower attachment on the hose into the wastegate, and watch the movement of the actuator arm as you add air pressure .. smooth/notchy/none at all .. etc.
Even a bike pump would work .. the trick is to get the air into the hose .. into the WG actuator, without leaking too much of it.
If using a compressor, moderate the amount of pressure, remembering that the WG usually runs with about 0-20psi.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
It's not the wastegate on the turbo. I removed the bolt at the turbo end and it moves very freely.
In this video I have attached a air blower set to 20psi to the intake hose. Notice the rod moves then stops and moves a bit more. I haven't checked the solenoid yet, but I'm wondering if the actuator is on the way out.
YouTube
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Did find this however. Cleaned with carby cleaner.
Edit: weird I added a pic of a gunked up MAP. Now it’s gone.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
You are confusing MAP and MAF sensors there (not the difference in the third letters - 'P' and 'F'). Air flow through is measured by the MAF sensor. 400kg/hr (although Nanocom incorrectly states g/hr) is well within it's range.
This has no or little bearing on uprated MAP sensors.
So in the end, thanks to everyone’s advice, I’ve learnt more about the TD5 engine. It seems that the issue was a really gunked up MAP sensor. After winding back the turbo I finally got it into my head the difference between a MAP & MAF sensor (P= pressure - inlet manifold, F = flow so measures air flowing into the turbo). I checked the MAP, took a pic which vanished, and cleaned it with carby cleaner and compressed air. I’ve already been told on Facebook that carby cleaner probably wasn’t the best choice so I’ll buy some contact cleaner when I go to the auto shop next tine.
The surging seems to have disappeared along with the randomly varying turbo boost readings. So now I’ve spent the last few days gradually adjusting the boost to just under surge point. I’ve got it around 1.25 bar now. I’m wondering if I can squeeze a couple of extra points out of it.
Unfortunately at foot flat to the floor acceleration it’s throwing a fault code that I’ve already started a thread titled ‘flashing MS & D’ where I’m trouble shooting that. Plus my damn exhaust manifold is leaking at number 3 about 200-300k after flattening and reinstalling. I guess it’ll have to come off and I’ll deweb it this time. Did momentarily think about a new AlliSport high flow manifold but it’s in the que behind the long range tank, rear draws, high lift jack/shovel holder, etc.
I did find a cracked/perishing air inlet corrugated pipe. I think I’ll upgrade it to an AlliSport 1 tho.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Leaking manifold is a pain, I found it lowered boost levels a bit and was causing high EGT. I highly recommend ceramic coating the manifold. I dealt with warping manifolds for years and this was part of the solution for reliability. www.jet-hot.com.au - Hi Performance Coating Lowers the under bonnet temperatures too.
APT Offroad used to do them on exchange basis. Your deposit was refunded upon return of your current manifold.
Otherwise source one from a wrecker, have that done and then fit. Keeps the vehicle on the road.
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