Hi everyone, I was driving along and wound up my driver's door window. A massive BANG ensued and scared the you know what out of me.
I thought I had run over something and pulled over and walked up the road to find .......... Nothing.
Drove on and after a while tried the window winder.............nothing Ahah!
Today I pulled the door card to find a metal quadrant with teeth laying in the bottom of the door. It looks like it has three spot welds that have let go. How to get the motor to part company from the mechanism and of course I don't know yet if it is repairable.
In other words revs shows me nothing.
Regards, Nick.
Just replaced mine recently - the motor stopped working.
The whole mechanism - motor + winder is bolted to the door. Take out the bolts and then work it all out via the lower openings - it does come out pretty easily.
You can get the motor and winder separately or as a unit.
_________________________
1996 D1 V8 - gone
2002 D2 Td5 ES- gone but still running elsewhere
2013 D4 SDV6 HSE - gone
2023 Defender 110SE D300
Have a look at these
repair window regulator discovery 2 at DuckDuckGo
It is not too tricky to puyll out and replace.
I got my regulator from Roverlord
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
I recently pulled one out of my parts to sell to someone that asked for it.
I think the only 'trick' to getting the mechanism out of the door was that it needed to be in the 'wound down' position to be able to manipulate it through the open sections of the door's frame.
If it's in the wound up position, the mechanism was at it's largest physical setting and made it tight to get it out of the access area allowed.
Only reason I remember it this way was that my part D2 is pretty much mauled a fair bit now, and the only way to get power to the motor to 'wind it down' was to haul a battery to the car, locate some spare wires to jumper them to the winder motor... stuff around guessing which wires do what, and which way is up and which way was down. The 'electrical stuffing around' took twice as long as pulling the actual door apart.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Thanks guys for all your good advice.
I found that the toothed quadrant had lost the spot welds and let go . I tried drilling the main thinner part of the regulator but I do not know what the quadrant is made of but it does NOT like weld I even took a grinder to it and would not take to the mig wire.
I have bought one on the net.
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