I do know that but thought he may have stated it incorrectly.inlet temp is measured from map sensor on both eu2 and eu3
It brings up another possibility that the MAP sensor is faulty and that could cause low fueling issues.
I know when one of my hoses blew off on a long climb the fueling only took a second of black smoke to revert to non turbo values. ie the MAP sensor was doing its job.
Regards Philip A
Evening all, thanks for the continues input.
I had the same thought as Paul - if it is running bad economy does this indicate ok fueling/not running lean? The fuel is going somewhere.
My old man drove it today, and commented that it doesn't spin up very quickly, and that's saying something as he has a non turbo Landcruiser camper! (my disco is definitely faster than that, but he's right that the acceleration is poor).
It's a 99, so I assume EU2?
I have cleaned the MAP sensor, months back, was pretty filthy before I cleaned it. But no real difference.
Re. suggestions about the wastegate hoses - currently I have bypassed the solenoid with a new hose.
Really need to run some more thorough diagnostics I think, to look into both the boost issue and the misfire.
Meantime from the suggestions here maybe getting rid of the EGR and checking all the turbo pipes.
Stall test has been mentioned - I'm not familiar with this, what's the purpose?
Thanks again all.
assuming a standard torque converter, the revs should be between 2600-2800 rpm , if lower it means you have reduced engine power, if it doesn't get above 1300 rpm your torque converter is u/s .
make sure the engine is at operating temp before doing the test and only do it once ( around 5 seconds should be long enogh ( no longer than 10 )
handbrake on and firm foot on brake, use chocks if you've got them .
How are your injector seals? Only ask as after I changed mine in the Defender (due to other symptoms) the improvement in performance was noticeable (obviously the original degradation was much slower so i didn't notice!).
Had similar symptoms with my 2003 TD5 D2 auto.
Turned out to be the turbo impeller had come loose.
Suggest you have a look at the impeller, if loose re-do with some type of loctite.
I had a spare new turbo so just had it swapped over. Still have the original one.
Will get around to cleaning it one day.
Cheers
Lew
I am following this post with interest as I have the same symptoms with my d2/2003.
I have gone through most engine related checks with no results. Only change I have not done is injector seals.
Nanocom shows me errors.
However I have done the stall test. It was hitting 3000rpm. I don’t know exactly what does it mean.
Interesting discussion, guys. I have a 2002 D2 TD5 Auto with 200,000 on the clock, so it's pretty much the same set-up. My engine is apparently the later one fitted to face-lift models. My car is pre-face-lift.
I concur with this. The one thing that I really want to sort out is the rumble/rough running/unbalanced feel that the donk has at 2100-2300 RPM. I'm cool with the performance, and if I need more it will give it when I stick the boot in, but the engine is very loud and feels as though it's out of balance at just the revs that the car wants to cruise at. Is this common?
(My turbo is fine, looks new inside and is not sloppy on the spindle, the blades are sharp, but I haven't checked the intake hoses etc.)
There's a thread on this already, use your search for td5 vibration should pop up?
But there isn't really a solution, after the 100th something post of try this and that no one has a solution where they change something and it fixes it! Just appears to be present in some of the td5's....
I'll try link the thread for you later
Lemo
[URL]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2-a/100404-ultimate-solution-td5-vibration-knocking.html/[URL]
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