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Thread: Replacing rear pads and discs. Any traps for the unwary?

  1. #71
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    I am thinking I can remove the caliper bolts, the small ones, and then remove and replace the disc rotor and pads. Orchave I got this wrong?
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
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    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
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  2. #72
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    Yeah, could work.

    I didn't try that(I wanted the calipers, not the disks).
    So I had the carriers still sitting there, when I then needed to remove the hub/bearings, to get the diffs out at a later date.

    I also have the carriers off too, and looking at them, I don't think there's enough room at the narrow points where the disk runs close to them ... so I doubt they'd come out with the carriers still on.

    ps. clean up the face of the hub/bearing to make sure the new disk seats cleanly onto the hub.
    A small amount of crud in the wrong location could then make the disk a bit wonky.

    pps. just had a quick peek online and 99.9% sure that the carrier bolts are 19mm sized.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #73
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    I often just use the appropriate ring spanner on many cars I've owned on the bolt and forget the socket. Hold the ring spanner end firmly with my finger onto the bolt head and use a piece of 4x2 timber to give the other end of the spanner a good wack and it releases the tight bolt. don't do this with elcheapo spanners though.


  4. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares View Post
    I often just use the appropriate ring spanner on many cars I've owned on the bolt and forget the socket. Hold the ring spanner end firmly with my finger onto the bolt head and use a piece of 4x2 timber to give the other end of the spanner a good wack and it releases the tight bolt. don't do this with elcheapo spanners though.
    I replaced the pads and discs on the weekend and those bolts are tensioned to 129lb/ft, I used a breaker bar and belted it with a 4lb copper faced hammer to get them to budge. Replacing rear pads and discs. Any traps for the unwary?

  5. #75
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    One of the handiest things in the D2 is the jack handle extensions.

    These make great extensions for breaker bars. Slide right over the handle.

    Leverage is your friend.

  6. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew D View Post
    One of the handiest things in the D2 is the jack handle extensions.

    These make great extensions for breaker bars. Slide right over the handle.

    Leverage is your friend.
    Except when swinging inside the wheel arch on those 19mm twelve point bolts, where kinetic energy works.

  7. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Except when swinging inside the wheel arch on those 19mm twelve point bolts, where kinetic energy works.
    Worked for me. Just have to crack them and then you're away.

    Also used it to remove the head bolts.

  8. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew D View Post
    One of the handiest things in the D2 is the jack handle extensions.

    These make great extensions for breaker bars. Slide right over the handle.

    Leverage is your friend.
    Same, I do pipe over a ring spanner.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  9. #79
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    My Snap On 1/2" drive breaker bar Snapped Off when a 5' length of water pipe was hanging off it.

    I should've used a 3/4" drive for that particular bolt.....

  10. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    My Snap On 1/2" drive breaker bar Snapped Off when a 5' length of water pipe was hanging off it.

    I should've used a 3/4" drive for that particular bolt.....
    I know Snap-On is the brand but for it to snap doesn't sound good.

    Kincrome have a 1/2" breaker bar that is good for 378lb/ft (512Nm)

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