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Thread: Front prop shaft

  1. #21
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  2. #22
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  3. #23
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    I had a quick look but after too many moves in the last few years I'd say the plastic needle thingy has gone.
    It was probably in the box of stuff I gave to the Deefers new owner.

    The funny thing is I still have a Gold Seal 1310 uni!
    Front prop shaft
    Looks like I need to get a new shaft to match it. Front prop shaft

    My stock DC shaft was rebuilt a few years ago before I acquired the car but I don't know what type of grease was used in the centering bearing and I suspect only standard 1300 unis were used.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Markf View Post
    Grrrrr. 18 months and about 30k km's is all it lasted. Properly greased at about 5k intervals. Granted it's done some hard work over corrugated, rocky, rough roads where 10 or 15kph was quite fast. On the bitumen over the last couple of days the car has developed a funny sort of scraping sound like a stone or dust build up behind a brake disc or the hand brake getting full of red dirt (the rest of the car is full of the stuff so why not the hand brake ?). Yesterday it developed a bit of a vibration at around 80kph. The noise and vibration seemed to be coming from the front drivers side wheel area. Today I went looking for the problem and found this YouTube and YouTube . I thought putting a quality shaft in it would get me a lot of k's even with the work that it gets to do.

    In NO WAY am I inferring that prop shaft was sub standard - I'm saying that even the best can crack up given sufficient strain. Time for some DC rebuilding fun it seems.
    Mark.those youtube clips I take it are with the shaft still fitted up at both ends to the truck? Looks like it but just wondering. Cheers

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    Mark.those youtube clips I take it are with the shaft still fitted up at both ends to the truck? Looks like it but just wondering. Cheers
    Yep those two are while it’s still fitted.
    Cheers,
    Mark F...
    Vk3KW

    2002 D2 Td5 auto - current AKA The Citrus Money Pit
    2000 Disco 2 Td5 Manual - dead and gone
    197? Range Rover - gone
    1973 SWB SIII Diesel, 1968 SWB IIA Petrol, 195? SI Petrol - all gone
    Outback Campers Sturt
    http://jandmf.com

  6. #26
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    And a FWIW on uni strength, aside from being 1310 vs 1300 unis (and it can be argued that the genuine GKN/Land Rover uni is as strong as a1310 uni as it uses a 1310 size trunnion) having the nipple in a cap like the TW unis do results in a stronger uni vs having the nipple at the root of the cross.
    The reason being the nipple in the cross results in a stress raiser as its at a point of stress concentration.

    Its also a bucket load easier to get to one on a cap!
    Which is more than made up for by having that bloody recessed nipple in the centering bearing.

  7. #27
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    I wonder if having a greasable ball is such a great idea. My stock LR shaft lasted to about 160000k and the greasable rebuild 100000k...interesting. cheers

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    I wonder if having a greasable ball is such a great idea. My stock LR shaft lasted to about 160000k and the greasable rebuild 100000k...interesting. cheers
    There's a lot to be said for that.
    Just look at the life you can get out of a sealed tie rod end if the boot is undamaged.

  9. #29
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    I know with bearings that companies like SKF use high quality grease.

    Most people just slap in what they have in the grease gun, grease is grease? Right?

    And from what I've seen cleanliness is often lacking, and I'm talking "professionals".
    Its very easy to introduce contamination by not purging the gun and wiping clean and not cleaning the nipple properly.

  10. #30
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    Hehehe...you said nipple.

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