Thread: Suspension install cost

guesstimate of around $500.

If it's just the springs and shocks you want changed, it's really an easy DIY.
Very basic tools needed, and maybe 3-4 hrs of your time when you're free.

if you can operate 1 spanner then you can do it yourself. Everything is straight forward.

Otherwise it should be about 2-3 hours labour from somewhere, so maybe $100 ph, so about 300 install?

Alternatively, go buy a set from ARB and get them to fit, the OME setup is pretty good, probably about $1800 fitted.

I think buying the parts will require more physical effort than the install.

As others have said. Do it yourself.

Just need the car jack, wheel stand and a few ring spanners.

You need to compress the shocks (by hand). The spring don't need compressing. Very easy job.

Read this thread

Installing front shocks ... problem

Originally Posted by Andrew D

....

You need to compress the shocks (by hand). The spring don't need compressing. Very easy job.

....

Never done it on a D2(yet!) but it looks far simpler/easier than the D1/RRC style where the shocks use the pin type mounting.

I can't see that the D2 shock compression by hand would be too much of a bother, in that the way I understand it, you'd undo the two bolts at the bottom collar(ie, to the spring base), then undo the entire shock mount tube.
D1 RRC style pin mounts is 'easily' done using the same workflow method, the issue comes when trying to remove the large single nut at the pin end. In some(I reckon many!) instances rust becomes a major factor and removing the large single nut always sees the shock tube turn with the nut.. so the nut itself is hard to get off the shock.

D2's mount design is much less prone to age related issues like that. In saying that tho, the D2's(both V8 and TD5) have a lot more paraphenalia around the shock tower itself, so there's just a little more work in that respect.

But as said, really easy spanner twirling job.

Originally Posted by AK83

D1 RRC style pin mounts is 'easily' done using the same workflow method, the issue comes when trying to remove the large single nut at the pin end. In some(I reckon many!) instances rust becomes a major factor and removing the large single nut always sees the shock tube turn with the nut.

I reckon every pin mount shock I've had to remove has had a date with an angle grinder. Luckily they have always been rubbish so no big deal! Big vice grips work but still a pain.

Originally Posted by LRJim

.... Big vice grips work but still a pain.

I had too on one lower mount. Damned bugga just would't budge.
Had to place the grips around the shock with something soft between so not to damage the shock casing obviously.

Out of the 4 pairs of bushes I wanted to replace, there had to be the one that made the quik'n'easy job an arduous ordeal! in the end.
Shocks will be replaced one day very soon, and with this in mind, I did take the time to paste some anti-sieze on the pin threads.
But we're off topic with D1 talk, D2 looks to be much less problematic in that sense, hence the recommendation to DIY and save the $s

The D2 is that easy you don't even need to jack the front of the car or remove the wheels to remove the two front shocks.

Thanks guys, really appreciate the response, now to read up on the best spring/shock combo for a disco that has a bar/winch/dual batt over the front axle, and drawers full of crap and a rear cargo with a fridge and full to the brim with every other piece of camping gear when we travel.

From what I have read so far... a ‘medium’ spring, a bit former than the standard spring might be what I’m looking for?