Thread: Installing front shocks ... problem

Jobs done !

Didn't touch the tower this time .... axle stand under the chassis, lifted high, just compressed the spring with ratchets straps. undid the bottom shock bolts, jacked the axle down, compressed the shock (std LR shocks coming out / going in - no gas) up into the tower, and lifted the spring out, extened the shock, undid the top shock mount bolt, and drop the shock out ... reverse to install. That's how easy it's supposed to be !

First use of my new ratcheting ring spanners .... don't know how I lived so long without a set of these. Brilliant !!

The gaiter on the front talishaft just compressed down onto the cross member just enough to prevent having to remove the cross member. This method is way easier than trying to remove the shock tower.

Changed the steering damper while I was at it as well. Full set of Fr & Rr and steering damper genuine LR shocks (for SLS vehicles - exactly the same p.no's as I took out) with approx' 10,000k's on them for $150 delivered ... not ready to do a lift just yet, but the old shocks were 160k old and I'm tired of the body roll, and the rubber bushes are much softer/weaker than the ones that went in (btw thanks to twr7cx for the hardware !)

I can keep saving now for some billies/sls blocks & all the gear needed to do the lift right first time.

... and btw, a swaybar disconnect is invaluable doing this otherwise the swaybar wants to hold the axle up.

Thanks for the help folks! For a while there I thought the beast had beaten me ...

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I use spring compressors on the springs though. They already scare the hell out of me with the energy stored in them. You're a much braver man than me by using a ratchet strap!

Agreed.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Well done with it.

I use spring compressors on the springs though. They already scare the hell out of me with the energy stored in them. You're a much braver man than me by using a ratchet strap!

Thank you Simon ...

Brave or stupid ?

That's why I gave up first time round ... WAY too much stored energy and the spring was no where near compressed enough ... but jacking the axle down meant I didn't have to compress the spring anywhere near as far as the first attempt (std spring, not a lifted spring), and the ratchet straps weren't excessivley tight ... and I don't own any spring compressors ... never needed them ... in fact, this is the first time I've ever changed shocks on any vehicle I've owned.

.... now if I was putting a 2" lifted spring in, I don't think the ratchet straps would cut it

Mind you, this has got me thinking about how to pull it apart with bilsteins in the front and the force that they always want to be open with. The ratchet straps might be really good there to compress them.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Mind you, this has got me thinking about how to pull it apart with bilsteins in the front and the force that they always want to be open with. The ratchet straps might be really good there to compress them.

You can close the shockies by hand. I have done numerous times.

I used ratchet straps front and rear to install springs and bilsteins, very good for compressing the bilstein pre charge when fitting the shocks. Makes doing it solo a breeze.

I'm not sure the revised fitting instructions would really make much of a difference given the hoops everyone seems to be jumping through.


This is the revised procedure for the Td5 LH Damper as an example. The procedure no longer requires jacking the vehicle or removing the road wheel. Either LR don't have a clue or AULROistas are making a simple job much harder than it needs to be?

The billable time allowance for each side is 18 minutes.


Damper - LH - renew - Land Rover, Discovery Series II (LT), Td5
Remove

Disconnect battery ground lead. For additional information,
refer to Global Technical Reference (GTR) Discovery Series
II Workshop Manual Section CHARGING AND STARTING,
Battery (86.15.01).

1. Release the retaining clip and disconnect the charge air cooler hose from the turbocharger.
   
2. Remove the bolt securing the top of the damper though the damper turret.
   
3. Remove the four nuts securing the damper turret base to the chassis. Refer to illustration on Step 5.
   
4. Compress the damper downwards.
   
5. Care must be taken to avoid damage to the brake pipes. Release the damper turret from the chassis and manoeuvre out from the engine bay.
   
6. Remove the two bolts securing the bottom of the damper to the axle.
   
7. Remove damper.
   
   Install
8. Install damper and align the lower bolt holes.
   
9. Install and tighten the bolts securing the damper lower mounting to 45 Nm (33 lbf.ft).
   10.
10. Maneuver the damper turret in to position and align the damper top mounting in the damper turret.
11. Install the bolt securing the top of the damper to the damper turret, but do not tighten at this stage.
    
12. Install the retaining nuts securing the damper turret to the chassis and tighten to 23 Nm (17 lbf.ft).
    
13. Tighten the damper upper retaining bolt to 125 Nm (92
    lbf.ft).
    
14. Install charge air cooler hose to turbocharger and secure the retaining clip.

Connect the battery ground lead. For additional information,
refer to Global Technical Reference (GTR) Discovery Series
II Workshop Manual Section CHARGING AND STARTING,
Battery (86.15.01)

Thanks Paul .... I note item 5.

Care must be taken to avoid damage to the brake pipes.

If I had of perservered with removal of the LH shock tower, I reckon I'd be replacing brake pipes ... the method written appears to be quick & simple IF all goes according to plan ...

Much easier to just take the wheel off to get access imho.

My way took longer but was way less stressful ... to me