I bought one of the hunterdi units & ive had no problems at all. It was super easy to install and once calibrated you forget it’s even there. Plus you can recalibrate it if you change your tyre size again
I've seen info on the Jaycar speedo corrector on these pages saying that it doesn't work, and posting this info to confirm this situation.
(hopefully saves other folks from 'wasting money').
So brother bought one, thinking that it'll fix his speedo too.
Won't learn!
I try to give him advice, that I myself read mainly on this site .. but he don't listen.
Anyhow, he bought one, I thought we may as well give it a try, I searched the Jaycar website, and they claim this is "the new improved version".
Info on the Jaycar SCU on here was much older than their claim to new model .. naturally it made more sense to try it and see what happens.
First run, nothing worked!
DOH! moment. I forgot to plug in the multiplug back into the SLABS ECU!
So now with that geriatric moment behind me, the Jaycar unit worked as described in the info sheet!
Beauty we both thought. Drove it for a couple of mins(they say a minute), red LED flashed .. connected(or switched) some rheostat and some jumper pins, finally speedo jumped up to an indicated speed!
OK! .. it's actually working (or so we thought).
The issue is not that it doesn't work, it kind'a works, the main issue is a huge delay in it's sending a signal to the speedo.
So when you first move off from rest, there's about a 5-10 sec delay to when the speedo actually indicates any speed.
Accelerating fast or slow has little bearing on this .. the delay seemed to be random, sometimes longer than other times.
I don't think this would be a problem in reality, but the actual problem is when you come to a stop!
The delay in the speedo dropping to zero is very very long .. minutes .. if at all!
That is, you come to a stop(say at lights or intersection) and it still indicates usually 40k/h.
At 40k/h while at rest also means you're adding klms to the odo/trip meter too.
We mucked about with all the jumpers and settings, but nothing would eliminate the delay issue.
So it just doesn't work properly!
It does work .. so long as you don't ever stop.
We set his down by 10%, GPS to help estimate speed, just drove around the streets, no faster freeway/highway speeds, but it did do the job of correcting the speedo .. just the delay makes it unusuable for most applications.
If you only ever drive on the highway/freeway and stopped the car as soon as you pulled up, no worries .. it'll work.
summary: the Jaycar unit(at $40!) is 99.9% of the way there to sort speedo correction issues out on a D2.
recommendation: don't do it!
Hopefully now, bro will get the hunterdi C6100 unit, and this will be sorted for him.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
I bought one of the hunterdi units & ive had no problems at all. It was super easy to install and once calibrated you forget it’s even there. Plus you can recalibrate it if you change your tyre size again
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Yeah, I told him!!(you have no idea how hard he is to get through too sometimes .. most of the time!
Originally, he got a corrector for a defender Td5, which works off the gearbox transducer... told him.. no way it'll work, you can't do it.
6 months later, he figured out there was no way to get that to work.
Told him.. get this C6100 device from hunterdi .. wayy back I emailed hunterdi and he quoted about 130-ish delivered back then .. he went a bought the Jaycar corrector!
Finally had some time(and weather) to give it a go, and like I said it worked(surprised) .. but it's operation wasn't usable in the real world.
The other thing that didn't work to well was the cruise control either. it'd work ok for a few seconds, and then surge a little, and then work fine, then surge again.
The major issue with the Jaycar unit is simply response time.
I forwarded the hunterdi email again to bro and from here it's his choice what he wants to do now.
Wiring is all set up for him to install the C6100 in a min or two himself now.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Nah! you can do it!!
If I can manage it, almost anyone not confined to a wheelchair can do it!
(I'm a 50yo in a 100 year old's body!)
My major complaint with the job was not being 101% sure I had the green/pink wires(a bit hard to be sure the pink stripe was actually pink!) .. but the contortion required to get to that plug/wire.
All the rest was easy ... made easier with bro there to help thread the wires across the back of the dash facia with a coat hanger wire.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
WTF Really FFS
It Amazes what some people do when they think they can save some coin and it back fires on them
Save some face![]()
I am good at saving a dollar or three.Spent a dollar or two at the Dollar Tree. (California, just bragging) Some times you have to bite the bullet and pony up the cash. For example, Genuine TD5 engine mounts, Genuine TD5 Header tanks. TD5 OEM GM radiators. I find as a rule of thumb, that Roverlord will sell the good stuff and avoid the dodgy gear. And if he avoids an item, it is because people will not pony up the cash for the genuine. So buy the genuine.
You pays your money and you makes your choice.
I am replacing the thermostat when I replace the radiator, (When I get around to it) I'm not fussed at the cost of the genuine thermostat ($85 with discount) as I hope to have many thousands of kms and why replace and old thermostat? Mine seems to be buggered any wayas I said. You pays your money and you makes your choice.
I should add that my idea of saving coin is doing it myself, But hey. it's fun. (When it is over )
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
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