Wheel nuts.

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Originally Posted by DiscoMick

I like mine to be as tight as the tyre lever can make them, but still able to be undone with the lever.

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If I’m doing mine up without torque wrench and the bride is home I get her to tighten, that way there is a good chance she can get them undone.

I should make a wheel brace like the old rangies, by design you should always be able to undo the nut if you used the wrench to tighten the nut.

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Originally Posted by rick130

Always use a tension wrench as that's the habit of the best part of a lifetime.[emoji23]

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Likewise. I’ve never had a damaged wheel or stud thread yet, they’ve always been able to be undone and never lost a wheel doing it - so why stop something that works?

Like every other nut and bolt on the vehicle, there would be a reason why the manufacturer has provided a torque setting. My old Falcon was 125 Nm and my Mazda is 103Nm - I doubt they just make up the numbers...

Tyre shops often use special ends on their rattle guns that will flex at and above a certain torque level to prevent over torquing. Can’t remember what they’re called but means that the nuts would be torqued up roughly to a certain spec.

A torque wrench in the car also doubles up as a long breaker bar in the event of emergency need.

The Mack trucks at work have factory supplied torque wrenches for their wheel nuts.

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Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

Never thought of carrying a torque wrench to do up wheel nuts, I just nip them up by hand and never had a problem, i don't think road side assist or tyre places would even use a torque wrench. More tools to carry in the bush also when changing a flat.

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There wouldn't be a tyre service in the land that doesn't use a torque wrench, these days. It's a shame that they are only going through the motions.
I watched the tyre fitter rattle up the wheels on a Cruiser, then check the nuts with the TW. He got absolutely no movement on the TW, so the nuts were definitely over tightened.
The dumb clux who did my car asked me for the security adapter, for the lock nuts. I handed it to him from the tailgate and told him NOT to use the rattle gun on it. He walked all the way to the back left, rear wheel and put it on the rattle gun. I told him if he put it on my wheels, like that, I'd break his arms. :wallbash:
He did, replacing two of the wheels, while I was distracted.
On a more cheerfull note.....
Attachment 147389 Attachment 147390

Mickey T's!!

Sweet!

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

I just stand on the wheel brace, then they're tight. :BigThumb: :burnrubber:

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[emoji23]

265-70x16, Rick. [smilebigeye]

I just use a 18v rattle gun to undo em and put them back on, Life is to short to be farting about with a torque wrench when changing a wheel in the bush[bigwhistle]

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Originally Posted by trout1105

I just use a 18v rattle gun to undo em and put them back on, Life is to short to be farting about with a torque wrench when changing a wheel in the bush[bigwhistle]

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Yep, I wouldn’t bother carrying one in the car....

I have one under the seat and a long breaker bar with a 27mm socket for the wheels. Rarely use the torque wrench out and about but i know where it is, and the time i take it out will be the time i need it.
Cheers Jim

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

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Tyre shops often use special ends on their rattle guns that will flex at and above a certain torque level to prevent over torquing. Can’t remember what they’re called but means that the nuts would be torqued up roughly to a certain spec.

A torque wrench in the car also doubles up as a long breaker bar in the event of emergency need.

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Torque limiting extensions

eg. Kingchrome set.

Tyre changing chaps that do our trucks at work reckon they're OK.
We have Beaurepairs mobile units change tyres on our work trucks and trailers, always torquing wheel nuts with long 1m + torque wrenches .. painful to watch, but they gotta do it.