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Thread: which shock turrets?

  1. #1
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    which shock turrets?

    Hi All,
    I need to replace my original front shock turrets as they are badly rusted. I have found some heavy duty ones like Terrafirma TF534 and this one from Paddock.
    https://www.paddockspares.com/pm103-...alvanised.html
    Anyone has any experience with these? I want to use them for standard shocks.
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Much of a muchness. I'd be inclined to go with the Paddock Spares units though as they state they're compatible with standard suspension and the galvanising would likely help them survive long term. If you were running some fancy shock absorber system, custom units and

    APT Offroad, up in Brisbane, make some too, or did, I can't find them on their website any more Discovery 2 though.

  3. #3
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    Why not just replace with stock ones.
    If you are concerned with rust , strip them and paint with cold galvanising.

    Regards Philip A

  4. #4
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    Get some standard ones from the wreckers ect paint of galvanise
    Why over engineer things when stockys are more than adequate for my average

  5. #5
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    Problem with stock one is cost .. 2x the price.

    I fitted aftermarket tubular types to my D1, as mine were starting to rust, and one of the retainer ring studs had snapped, so while removing I thought to change the turrets.
    I wanted the tube type more so to make it easier to fit shocks(remove and refit) as on the D1 shock type the original types can be a PITA to remove/refit the shock.

    D2 remove/refit isn't so much a problem tho, as the shocks use eye type fastening.

    So for the D2, if you were to replace with new(not second hand), the aftermarket type is cheaper at least.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Problem with stock one is cost .. 2x the price.

    I fitted aftermarket tubular types to my D1, as mine were starting to rust, and one of the retainer ring studs had snapped, so while removing I thought to change the turrets.
    I wanted the tube type more so to make it easier to fit shocks(remove and refit) as on the D1 shock type the original types can be a PITA to remove/refit the shock.

    D2 remove/refit isn't so much a problem tho, as the shocks use eye type fastening.

    So for the D2, if you were to replace with new(not second hand), the aftermarket type is cheaper at least.
    Good condition standard second hand ones will still be cheaper .
    There is no need for tubular ones on a D2 except for the **** factor

  7. #7
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    I'd put the paddocks turrets on .

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Much of a muchness. I'd be inclined to go with the Paddock Spares units though as they state they're compatible with standard suspension and the galvanising would likely help them survive long term. If you were running some fancy shock absorber system, custom units and

    APT Offroad, up in Brisbane, make some too, or did, I can't find them on their website any more Discovery 2 though.
    The OP is in Europe, freight might be a killer with APT.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    Good condition standard second hand ones will still be cheaper .
    There is no need for tubular ones on a D2 except for the **** factor
    Thems the ones for me!!
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  10. #10
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    Normally I would also take the original ones, but even for a non genuine the price is quite high (about 200 pounds). The welded one from paddock is for normal height and can be used with standard suspension parts and if i understood well their description the pair costs only 100 pounds.
    I will check if i can get good condition used ones but in hungary the chance is low. The other option is to lasercut the base ring (5mm steel) and change on the original one (cut the rusted one off and weld the new one).

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