Thread: Tall door - top hinge out of alignment - sign of failure?

With that amount of dry rust there I would say something is worn out. Don't know what the bearing setup is but on my D1 I drilled a small hole in the hinge butts & give it a small drop pf light oil if/when I think about it.

Obviously the top hinge takes most of the leverage weight & so will wear quicker than the lower one.

Broken?

Looks expensive, but not as expensive as the door falling off suddenly when it is opened!

I dunno,, I think the hardest bit will be re-aligning the door.
maybe a battery rattle gun to undo the hinges?

would just the bottom hinge support the door long enough to change the top?

I think that would certainly be needed. You can bet it was put on with one + Loctite.

Sounds like time to get out the Hy- Lift & lots of soft padding.

I wondered whether it has been out of alignment since new, hence a possible fractured pin or premature wear?

Only one way to find out.............

Originally Posted by 4bee

Looks expensive, but not as expensive as the door falling off suddenly when it is opened!

Not too badly priced for a replacement hinge. According to Microcat there are a few different versions (note seems to be different parts for upper and lower as well):

BHB700030 - up to 3A774165
BHB70031 - 3A774166 to 4A833856
BHB700032 - 4A833857 onwards

My Sep 02 built D2a is the middle one, which is apparently the same as on some D1's too! Brit-Car in the UK < Your Search Results > > have Pattern replacements from Allmakes and Britpar for USD $35.00 or Genuine Land Rover for USD $61.16 - not too scary at all! Obviously they're not painted and colour coded to match the car though...

There is also a gasket that goes between the body and the hinge (note seems to be different parts for upper and lower), part number MXC8774 which Brit-Cat have genuine Land Rover for USD $8.69 < Your Search Results > >.


My tall door operates smoothly. Doesn't seem to have any undue play or anything in the opening or closing positions.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

maybe a battery rattle gun to undo the hinges?

Originally Posted by 4bee

I think that would certainly be needed. You can bet it was put on with one + Loctite.

According to Rave, the bolts should only be 34Nm so should come out easily.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

would just the bottom hinge support the door long enough to change the top?

Originally Posted by 4bee

Sounds like time to get out the Hy- Lift & lots of soft padding.

I think a jack and padding or second person would be much less risky!

Have you checked that the door is not carrying any excess weight & do you routinely check & adjust the lock 'wedge' for free play?

The images on their website do look like the hinges could be a bit pith weak IMHO. Not actually seen one in the raw but just going by the images.

Originally Posted by 4bee

Have you checked that the door is not carrying any excess weight & do you routinely check & adjust the lock 'wedge' for free play?

No, I have not. My spare would be heavier than standard as it's a steel wheel with a 33" tyre. I've also mounted a fire extinguished to the door. In the door pocket is the Land Rover wheel change kit. Being an HSE it also has the factory dual subwoofers in the door.

I have never checked or adjusted a lock wedge on it - will need to look and see what that is.