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Thread: D2a being naughty AGAIN !

  1. #21
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    1/2" drive .. how long? 600mm bar? .. less? more?
    Just use that, should be OK .. as long as it's not made of Chineseium
    Is it ratcheting? or solid.
    If ratcheting, it'll probably break the ratcheting mechanism. If solid, should be good.
    (ask me how I know this! )

    On my D2, I just used a solid 1/2 drive 600mm bar, basically used all my weight(100kg) on the end .. done.
    No issues.
    But I did try to do it that same way with my ratcheting breaker bar(also 600mm) and the ratchet mechanism snapped internally.
    I did use the ratcheting bar to remove the nut, came off with lots of groaning noises, but bar did it fine.
    It was on the reinstall where it broke. So had to rush out to buy a solid breaker to do it back up again.

    reading the comments above, going on 50Kg force on a 1m bar, then my 100kg on my 600mm bar works out to be roughly similar.
    But from earlier comments re the nut, it has no input onto the actual bearings, it just tightens up the collar, so excessive force on it won't affect the operation of the bearing(eg. preload) .. like it does on a D1/RRC.

    Do you have a 6 point socket for the nut? I think 32mm someone said?
    I'd be very wearing of using a 12point with that much force required.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  2. #22
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    Mine came off with ryobi impact gun.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfingooner View Post
    I got all excited as I thought I could get the Ryobi "One" impact wrench, power is 360NM, ($169) then remembered it is lbs/ft I need. Nothing Ryobi do is powerful enough, shame as I like the idea of getting wheels nuts on and off in a jiff.

    Dewalt do one powerful enough (580 NM), but that is $388 at Bunnings, so too much, so looks like I will hire a traditional torque wrench from Coates or Kennards, Bunnings do not even stock a TW powerful enough for the job.

    Hopefully get job done this weekend. Thanks for the help as always.
    I bought a cheap cordless Ozito rattle gun and it has absolutely No problems getting stubborn wheel nuts off, Even D2 wheel nuts.
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
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  4. #24
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    My breaker bar is 40cm and torque wrench 50cm which goes up to 150 lbs/ft. My Kinchrome 32mm is 12 point. I always keep a metre length of fencing tube in the car for punctures and stubborn wheel nuts, so I can get some good length on the breaker bar. So should I be getting a 6 point 32mm socket to give myself half a chance ?

    I weigh about 75kg so if I have a metre length or just over, so with a little jump, that in theory should do it, or am I being too scientific!! Sadly cashflow tight having bought the new hub, but do fancy getting the Ryobi impact driver and socket as might make life happier in the long run.

    Do I wing it with the 12 point, or am I going to get myself into a pickle.....decisions decisions....

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfingooner View Post
    ....

    I weigh about 75kg so if I have a metre length or just over, so with a little jump, that in theory should do it, or am I being too scientific!! Sadly cashflow tight having bought the new hub, but do fancy getting the Ryobi impact driver and socket as might make life happier in the long run.

    Do I wing it with the 12 point, or am I going to get myself into a pickle.....decisions decisions....
    I'd say your biggest issue with the standing on the breaker bar technique will be that if the 12point socket moves a little, it will probably hack into the corners of the nut enough to be a problem.

    If you can get a hold of a 6 point socket .. probably better.

    I have a Ryobi impact driver.
    Will have a go on another hub on my spare, that wasn't touched, and will try give it a go tomorrow for 'ya. (too dark and late now).
    Let you know how it goes.

    The larger one apparently does 360Nm, the smaller one does 270Nm.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    .....

    I have a Ryobi impact driver.
    Will have a go on another hub on my spare, that wasn't touched, and will try give it a go tomorrow for 'ya. (too dark and late now).
    Let you know how it goes.

    The larger one apparently does 360Nm, the smaller one does 270Nm.
    No chance!

    I reckon I impacted it for a good 60sec or so with the Ryobi, didn't budge the nut.
    All that happened was that my hand went numb, and the socket got a bit warm!
    I didn't try to de-stake the nut, which may have helped, but that's not the point.
    I don't think it has enough juice to remove the hub nut.

    ps. tried with a 1.5Ah battery, and the driver only gets about 10sec operation before it cuts out, so it does use a fair amount of power. For wheel nuts a fully charged small battery will probably undo/tighten wheel nuts.
    But for larger jobs, you definitely need larger 4Ah or more batteries if you want to use it for more than 10sec bursts.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  7. #27
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    Out with the old , in with the new, the old one use to have no problem with hub nuts, the new one is lighter , smaller and 810 nm breaking torque ( 200 nm more than the old) exxy but you get what you pay for sometimes, old one day in day out for 7 odd years.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #28
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    Thanks Gents,

    I will get myself a 6 point socket to give myself half a chance

  9. #29
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    that pic was of a half inch torque multiplier,,
    for babies,,
    the 3/4 one plus a 1500Nm torque wrench is entertaining to watch
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
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    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


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  10. #30
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    All done

    So bought a 6 point socket and bigger breaker bar, had some difficulty getting the rotor off, but the hub nut was loose ! No-one before had burred the lock, so just came off by hand. We reckon that was as a result of the knackered bearing, but not the other way round ? Was a lot of wiggle in the wheel so bearing definitely knackered.

    all went back on smoothly, we used a little aviation sealant where the hub went back on, and also new hub came with new O-ring. After a 10 minute drive, did fault check of Nanocom and all lights on dash disappeared, steering seems a little better with a straight wheel.

    tightened with 500mm breaker bar and I just about put all my weight on it, then burred the bit, job done. Then filled up the diff, but need to buy a little more diff oil to top up fully.

    Thank you everyone for all the help and advice, all very appreciated, and would be interested to know what they would charge to do at a service outlet. Always good doing yourself, knowing what part and brand you are putting on and that it is being done with care.

    This forum is so good, and plan to have a play with the steering as next project. Cheers all. Matt.

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