Starting Problems

**ecn226** · 13th February 2019, 05:24 PM

I have a 2002 D2 td5 auto. It has had the egr removed and a decat pipe fitted. Other than that it is standard. 290000km.

The problem is that at times it is hard to start. It cranks over well and fires occasionally but doesnt start. If you keep cranking with the accelerator to the floor it will start. Eventually. Doing the fuel purge thing makes no difference. Once it has started it is fine. No misses. Performs and starts as you would expect until the next time it does it.

Other times it will start with the normal flick of the key but the RPM will drop down to about the 250rpm mark then jump up to the 1000 rpm mark. It will do this for maybe 3 or 4 seconds and then its back to normal.

There are no fault codes logged according to my nanocom.

I have replaced the air bleed valve in the fuel filter head, the fuel filter and injector seals and washers. Mine does not have a non return valve. There are no leaks that i can see in the fuel lines.

Anyone have any suggestions on what else it could be?

**ballbag** · 13th February 2019, 08:02 PM

Fuel pump?

**trout1105** · 14th February 2019, 09:37 AM

Have you done a compression test? at 290,000K's that motor will be a little bit "Tired" also are all your glowplugs working?

**discorevy** · 14th February 2019, 07:12 PM

Originally Posted by trout1105

Have you done a compression test? at 290,000K's that motor will be a little bit "Tired" also are all your glowplugs working?

If the vehicle has been serviced well then it'll do double those k's before it starts to get "tired" and then some , it's not a V8

they'll also start in this summer climate without any glow plugs functioning.

I'd be revisiting injector washers, but one way to check is to fill the tank to the brim then run the engine while looking for bubbles in the fuel
Also make sure no oil at red plug in ecu , and seeing you have nanocom check cylinder balance at idle

**acgmarketing** · 14th February 2019, 09:18 PM

Always wondered re cylinder balance at idle. What values are you looking for or at what point do they indicate an issue?

**ecn226** · 15th February 2019, 07:30 AM

Thanks for the replies so far.

Although I haven't checked compression I don't think that's a problem. It does't blow smoke or use oil and there isn't any excessive blowby. Its been serviced By MR every 20000km and I do an oil change at !0000km between the services. I haven't checked the glow plugs either but it is very random so I think if that were the problem it would happen every cold start? It didn't want to start a few days ago and it was 30 degrees or more here.

Cylinder balances are between +3 and -3 most of the time with the occasional jump to+ or - 5 or 6 but that can be on any cylinder.

Could a fuel pump do this even though its running? I can hear it running. I have been listening for it at every start up since this problem started. Admittedly it would be getting on towards 150000km old.

Discorevy I have been thinking about the injector washers and will have a go at the brimming fuel tank idea over the weekend. When I changed them though I couldn't see any evidence of them leaking. Can they leak and still look OK?

**ecn226** · 16th February 2019, 01:49 PM

I just filled it to the brim and got my wife to hold the rpm at between 2000 and 2500 for about a minute. Not a bubble to be seen. Not even a little frothy one. Perhaps I should try it again with the engine cold?

Interestingly, for those who may try this later, it held almost 10 litres from a fuel container I used to top it off after trickle filling it at the servo and the 1km drive home.

**whitey56** · 16th February 2019, 03:14 PM

If you still have the old filter cut it open to see if you have any crap in the tank.
My pump is 30k old and takes 28 seconds to prime with cold fuel and 3/4 full tank, I am assuming the prime cycle is stopped when a certain pressure has been reached but could be wrong, if your pump primes for a minute you would think it’s suspect.
Nanocom can run a test on the glow plugs although I haven’t used it, as your in Brisbane It should fire without glowing anyhow.

**harro** · 16th February 2019, 03:22 PM

Yes the td5 will run with a faulty fuel pump although should struggle under load and be harder to start.
If it is the original fuel pump certainly a possibility also with that vintage the pump could actually be blocked
Also check the fuel pump relay, could be on the way out. It usually fails where it is plugged in, you may see burnt spots where it connects.

btw, cylinder balances are good!

**AK83** · 16th February 2019, 08:51 PM

A long shot maybe?
Hows the battery? Have you had it tested(can you test it).
MY thoughts are: if car does this only at start, if battery is a little sus, (D2's seem to need a good battery to keep 'em going) so maybe at start up the battery may not be holding up so well, and could be running the fuel pump at a lower voltage than required.
Lower volts at the fuel pump could be causing the start issue, and once running, battery comes back to a good voltage, and all runs as per normal.

So maybe check battery: check whilst charging, both just after a start up and after some time afterwards too. soon after a start up, you may see mid 14v, as the battery accepts a higher charge, and as it tops up, voltage could drop into the 13s.
Also check volts prior to a start up too .. is it mid 12's .. low 12s .. 11's maybe?

etc, etc.

I think I remember that the pump may draw between 8-13amps on it's own. Add the glow plug current draw, as well as everything else required .. it's easy to see how even a slightly degraded battery could lead to certain issues.
Could even be as simple a problem as a dodgy battery lead.
The twin cabled +ve connector on the D2 is a dreadful design, just about all I've seen so far have ever so slightly loose cables in the block.
Other thing to check for would be the earth cable. Any rust between the body and the tab could affect battery power getting through to where it'd be needed.
Assuming you don't know where this one is, just back(towards driver) of the battery earth terminal, the cable is connected on a diagonal support via a tab at 90° to the cable.
Undo this one, check body and tab for cleanliness, refit. Can't remember exactly, maybe an 8 or 10mm nut for the stud on the support. That's one of the main earthing points(among a few) on the body.

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