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Thread: Benefits of Centre ATB when already have diff trutracs?

  1. 13th March 2019, 07:21 PM #1
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    Benefits of Centre ATB when already have diff trutracs?

    Hi folks. In my minuscule efforts to try and keep the economy going -what if any marginal benefits apply from fitting a centre ATB to a LT230 (with CDL) when trutracs are already fitted to front and rear diffs?
    Interested in comments from the many gurus on here!
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
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    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
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  2. 13th March 2019, 09:49 PM #2
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    Bohica
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    My ideal set up would be ATB diffs front rear and centre.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
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  3. 13th March 2019, 10:20 PM #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    My ideal set up would be ATB diffs front rear and centre.
    Sorry, but what’s an ATB?
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
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  4. 13th March 2019, 10:24 PM #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    My ideal set up would be ATB diffs front rear and centre.
    Which is very close to what I'm considering, given the trutracs are a very similar beast.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
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  5. 13th March 2019, 11:14 PM #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    Sorry, but what’s an ATB?

    Review: Ashcroft LT230 ATB centre diff
    Current Cars:
    2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
    2008 RRS, TDV8
    1995 VS Clubsport

    Previous Cars:
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    2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
    2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion
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  6. 14th March 2019, 05:34 AM #6
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    It'd be interesting to drive.
    I'd really like to feel how it affects the under/oversteer balance using all three?
    One thing having an ATB in the t/case did is reduce the backlash there substantially.
    Probably not noticeable with an auto, but very much noticeable on a manual.
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  7. 14th March 2019, 06:23 PM #7
    AK83
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    ....
    I'd really like to feel how it affects the under/oversteer balance using all three?
    ....
    Same here .. mainly on the faster(ie. smooth) gravel roads that dominate our country.
    Gotta say tho, as is, on fast gravel, D1 handles just as I expected it too(like my old RRC), very predictable and quite neutral handling.

    my only issue ATM is some rear bump steer .. thinking either trailing arm bushes(to chassis) or maybe balljoint not quite in top nik .. kind of bump steer.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

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  8. 15th March 2019, 06:27 AM #8
    INter674
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    Even with perfect bushes the solid axle front will always have some panhard induced steering affect especially when the suspension is raised above std. Std suspension has minimal up lift relatively..perhaps done deliberately by LR to reduce steering impacts/inputs.

    Ever driven a raised yota or patrol? ...they wander all over the place😐 esp the rear whereas the rear on a disco is solid courtesy of the watts linkage.
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  9. 17th March 2019, 07:27 AM #9
    twr7cx
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    I've got the triple combo. Originally only had front and rear and then had the centre done on a whim. I really can't say I noticed anything particular after it though.
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  10. 17th March 2019, 08:00 AM #10
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    rick130
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Same here .. mainly on the faster(ie. smooth) gravel roads that dominate our country.
    Gotta say tho, as is, on fast gravel, D1 handles just as I expected it too(like my old RRC), very predictable and quite neutral handling.

    my only issue ATM is some rear bump steer .. thinking either trailing arm bushes(to chassis) or maybe balljoint not quite in top nik .. kind of bump steer.
    Hey Arthur,

    I found with a little play in the lower rear trailing arm chassis bush the rear roll steer was pretty horrific.
    Check the A frame to chassis bushes too, the bolt and crush tube wear leading to bump steer and a clunk.

    I just hate using industrial bolts in double sheer clevises, threads aren't designed to bear loads!!!!
    I used to go rough through the race cars I used to look after and replace any SAE hardware with AN/MS/NAS spec bolts where you can specify the grip (unthreaded shank) length.
    They go up in 1/6" increments just so they can be used in shear.
    Or if I had to use socket head cap screws I'd buy too long and trim the threads to suit, often having to use washers as packers under the nut to get the grip length I needed.

    The wear on those big 19mm bolts for the A frame was scary!
    I just used genuine bolts as they are a known quality with the Deefer and made sure every bolt was correctly tensioned and crossed my fingers. Benefits of Centre ATB when already have diff trutracs?
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