Reply With QuoteJulian if you go the easy out option be careful not to snap the easy out, they can be brittle and they don't drill or come out very easily.
AT RESTProbably to save $400, not every ones as rich as youOriginally Posted by DeanoH
for just over $400
Why would I do it myself ?
Deanoand can afford to pay others to do the work.
AT RESTJulian if you go the easy out option be careful not to snap the easy out, they can be brittle and they don't drill or come out very easily.
ChatterBox
SubscriberActually around $500 I forgot the excessively priced spare partsProbably to save $400, not every ones as rich as you
Unlike some, I don't slope off and buy a very expensive MIG/TIG without telling SWMBO
Deano
66 SIIA SWB .......73 SIII LWB diesel wgn
86 RR 'classic'......99 Range Rover P38a
94 Defender 110..95 Defender 130 Ute
96 D1 300TDi.......99 D2 TD5 (current)
04 D2a Td5..........02 Disco 2 V8
AT RESTBusiness expense for fabrication. expensive parts you seem to of forgot the free tow bar included in the deal.Actually around $500 I forgot the excessively priced spare parts
Unlike some, I don't slope off and buy a very expensive MIG/TIG without telling SWMBO
Deano
YarnMaster
SubscriberAfter the hassles with the rear/tailgate door torx screws, I Think I'll get the thread doctor in. If I had a spare car I could lay up this one and do the lot. Hmm if P plate driver gets another speeding ticket, I'll have a spare Freelander.
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
Master
SupporterJust wondering if anyone has bought any 'ASI' branded products from EBay and can vouch for quality or otherwise. There are about 5 entries for free-flowing SS Td5 exhaust manifolds for around $185...which seems cheap. I don't think my existing manifold is particularly warped, but was going to replace studs anyway as one has finally snapped at 260,000km... BTW, the trick of drilling a hole into broken stud and hammering a torx bit into it worked well as a removal technique. Was pleasantly surprised that stud isn't particularly tight once nut tension is released...so to speak...
Are there any problems using stainless studs in an alloy head? Do people apply copper grease to studs?
Always looking for creative new ways to get bogged... :whistling:
76 RR...sold coz fuel was expensive at 70c/l :eek:
93 200 Tdi Disco...old faithful...sold to make way for...
99 Td5 Disco ACE...nice drive...hopefully reliable...
LordRover
SubscriberLike this?
IMG_0591.jpg
If so, they do NOT fit a D2 with AC, as they foul the compressor.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Master
SubscriberDon't ever buy the SS exhaust manifold they crack and are just rubbish, just use the stock manifold or allisport manifold
Wizard
Supporteran alternative to screw extractors / easy outs, once you give up on them from snapping (though one stud worked), I just had success arc welding one of the nuts on after drilling it out to 8mm so the broken stud was flush with the nut outer face. just make sure you have enough amps to melt the stud, i took the 200 amps setting and use a thin 2mm rod with the arc focussed on the middle of stud, no need to aim at nut or the join between them, the nuts are quite softer and will liquefy and join the stud easily once the stud is molten / flowing.
Master
SupporterI have done the remove broken 8mm studs and drill and tap to 10mm studs routine (leave middle studs at 8mm at not enough meat in the head to allow 10mm drill and tap), and it can be a "problem" job lining the holes/studs up so that the replacement manifold goes on without having to "adjust" the manifold holes with an even bigger bigger drill than the 10mm.
I was told to fit larger studs to limit the manifold from warping.
My compliments to those who can manage to line up the new larger studs to allow the manifold to go straight on without problem.
On my next TD5 I had the manifold ceramic coated, and drilled out the holes on the manifold to 10mm, leaving the original 8mm studs in place.
I figured that perhaps the warping was because the manifold could not expand evenly/easily when very hot, and I wanted to avoid the job of drilling and tapping to insert 10mm studs. ( They are same as 300TDI studs.)
My vehicle is re-mapped and has had the main muffler removed and is more "free flowing" in the exhaust.
I generally do very long hot trips (covering 3000+ k's in 3 days in 40+C temps). Possibly the exhaust gas comes out hotter and for long periods...somebody will correct me on that.
So far I have covered 50K of long hot runs after fitting the manifold with larger holes to 8mm studs and nil warping.
So possibly a quick fix to going the 10mm replacement option, is to ceramic coat and enlarge the holes in the manifold.
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