Can I also make a small suggestion. When I reassembled my LT230 with an ashcroft ATB I found it exceedingly difficult to shift the diff lock dog clutch over the new ATB splines. I found that the thickness of the black paint in the splines had reduced the teeth clearances. I took it apart again and rubbed off most of the paint in the splines which fixed the engagement problem.
Food for thought.
Today I used the 12 ton press to remove and install the bearings in the front and rear housings plus the CDL cluster. The main case went to the engineer to get resleeved.
Incidentally, I had no issues installing the gears. The black paint wasn’t an issue at all, the gears slipped on easily.
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"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Another question: should I replace this or clean the rust off it and reuse? The rust is only surface and there are no horrible marks, dings or putting. It seems reasonably straight also (by eye).
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"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Re use it, as long as the surface the seal runs on is good
Here's the drawing for the lifting bracket. I pulled the swivel plate out of my trolley jack and welded a suitable piece of tube to the bracket to make it fit where the swivel plate had been.
With the Defender driven up onto bits of 100 x 150 treated fence post (on the flat) the transfer came out under the chassis rails on the lowered trolley jack. Easy peasy. good luck you're doing a great job.
Don.
Note to self: ensure that the disposable crush tube that goes inside the intermediate gear doesn’t get thrown out until you are sure your rebuild kit contains a new one! For some retarded reason the Ashcrofts master rebuild kit has, from what I can tell, everything except that tube! I’ve managed to source a new crush tube plus a replacement for the cracked bearing plate locally. I took the bearings and intermediate gears to the engineer today to ask if he could make a solid tube. He said yes but need to know the dimensions of the original tube that had need thrown out...bummer...going to use a crush version instead of a solid tube.
Hopefully the case will be finished at the engineer tomorrow or next day.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Because I’m fitting a new CD, do I need to do steps 36-44?![]()
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Correct john
All of that is regarding setting the centre diff pre-load
Your ATB is ready to go!
Regarding the crush tube, I believe Noel suggested this technique;
set up the box have all the preloads set, turning resistances happy,
Then pull down the box remove crush tube and measure
Then turn up an exact length tube the length of the crush
Re-assemble
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
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