Speedo correction

**onebob** · 10th June 2019, 08:23 PM

It’s been 12 months since I fitted my KUHMO Road Venture MT51 235/85/r16s and today I installed the HUNTER DI speedo correction unit (ie: C6100-2 Electronic Ratio Interface). In the interim I’ve got by with a gps HUD (heads up display), however, I’m not unhappy to see it gone, because as good as they are it didn’t feel “quite right” in a 1999 build D2

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For me the the most welcome outcome of all was to have the auto trans shift pattern back to normal.

**onebob** · 14th June 2019, 09:01 PM

I thought I’d post a pic of the SCU (speedo correction unit) install position before re-installing the glovebox and kick panel. The SCU is the box with the yellow label centre left in the pic, and the connection to intersect the vehicle wheel speed sensor signal is the two connectors visible at bottom centre of the pic. I took 12V and Earth from nearby off the cigar lighter feed. Thanks go to Slunnie for his past informative and helpful post.

**steve_a** · 18th June 2019, 02:53 PM

You should really consider grabbing the 12v supply from one of the ECUs under there, the reason being is that you have them running off 2 different fuses. If the accessory/cigar blows then you lose speed signal and will have a lot of confusing stuff, fine if you remember that you have that feeding a pretty important item.
The cigar fuse is much more likely to blow because you have stuff being plugged in as well.
Not life or death, but something to consider.

**onebob** · 18th June 2019, 04:31 PM

Thanks steve, you do make good points, interestingly it was in fact in my original plan for the installation to tap power and earth at the BCU loom plug, however recognising that many of the transient electrical gremlins that these vehicles are known for emanate from low voltage conditions, I therefore decided not to interfere with the ECU connector wire looms beyond what was absolutely necessary. My auxiliary power outlets are all directly connected to the main battery via a circuit breaker, and the cigar lighter socket is redundant except for when the occasional passenger wants to charge their phone.

**John_D4** · 18th June 2019, 11:52 PM

I ran a huge power feed to under the dash where I mounted 2 relays. I triggered by ignition and the other by accessory modes. Then I added a 10 port blade fuse box to each. Now it’s super easy to add extra devices.

I can send a pic if it’s confusing.

**sierrafery** · 19th June 2019, 04:57 AM

Originally Posted by onebob

... I therefore decided not to interfere with the ECU connector wire looms beyond what was absolutely necessary.

IMO that was a good decision... in fact better not splice into any ECU feed with retofitted things ever cos if the additional device fails as to blow the fuse you can end up immobilised and you'll have to waste precious time with troubleshooting(provided you are skilled enough to do that otherwise you might spend serious money for recovery)

**4runnernomore** · 19th June 2019, 06:22 AM

Originally Posted by John_D2

I ran a huge power feed to under the dash where I mounted 2 relays. I triggered by ignition and the other by accessory modes. Then I added a 10 port blade fuse box to each. Now it’s super easy to add extra devices.

I can send a pic if it’s confusing.

Yes please

**John_D4** · 19th June 2019, 07:55 AM

Here you go:

I ran some 6 or 8b&s wire via a 40amp (? Can’t quite remember) from the main battery to 1 relay then onto the 2nd relay. 1 relay is triggered via an accessory feed that I found under the dash. The ignition is triggered via the thick yellow wire that runs up to the key barrel region. The fuse boxes should be self explanatory and are obviously run from the power out on each relay.

If that doesn’t make sense let me know and I’ll draw up a circuit diagram. I was in a rush when I was plugging in the accessories so I didn’t get around to labelling what each fuse is for. Don’t forget to do that when you plug things in - it’s a nuisance to do later.

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