New to D2 heater issues

**Big B** · 30th November 2019, 09:10 AM

Hi all
just purchased new to me 2000 TD5 manual D2.
have had a RWC done and managed to repair all the bushes ball joints etc. but the heater is giving me grief.
was not working at all ie blowing cold air. Have flushed the cooling system and I now get hot ish air but only at high revs ie driving down the road, once the engine is at temp. Does the brains trust have any thoughts? It’s the only thing stoping the RWC now.

thanks
Big B

**PhilipA** · 30th November 2019, 12:25 PM

Are the thermostat pipes on the correct way?
Regards PhilipA

**Big B** · 30th November 2019, 01:45 PM

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Are the thermostat pipes on the correct way?
Regards PhilipA

Hi not sure it’s fairly complicated down there. The nano com tells me that the thermostat is opening at about 70deg (that’s when the temp gauge jumps from the bottom line to the centre position) thought that was a bit cool to be opening up?
Have had my hand on the heat exchanger under the centre console and can only hold it there for a few seconds before its to hot.

Have just re checked coolant level after bleeding now that it’s cold and it took another 3 litres.

will take it for another spin and see what comes.

thanks

**PhilipA** · 30th November 2019, 01:50 PM

70C is exactly right for the gauge to go to centre.
The thermostat starts to open at 82C and is fully open at 88C.
The air lock maybe explains why the heater does not work well as the pipes around wrong way usually means overheating.
Regards PhilipA

**Big B** · 30th November 2019, 03:19 PM

Originally Posted by PhilipA

70C is exactly right for the gauge to go to centre.
The thermostat starts to open at 82C and is fully open at 88C.
The air lock maybe explains why the heater does not work well as the pipes around wrong way usually means overheating.
Regards PhilipA

Thanks Philip

Came back from my spin and works much better still not great, Luke warm at idle after a good run?
it seems a real bugger to bleed, I had the front end elevated 300mm and the over flow bottle elevated as well!
hopefully enough to get me through RWC.

Thanks for the advise.

Brian

**Eevo** · 30th November 2019, 03:30 PM

are you running the heater on full when bleeding?

some air bubbles are hard to shift.

**Blknight.aus** · 30th November 2019, 07:13 PM

Coke bottle bleed.

the coke bottle cooling system fill.

watch for bubbles.

**discorevy** · 30th November 2019, 08:12 PM

If you've had oil in the cooling system at one point ( previous faulty oil cooler) it will collect at the metal heater pipes , you will need to remove the heater hoses and flush .
They are not difficult to bleed if done right........unless there's a problem.
Make sure you have coolant coming out the telltale just below the radiator cap and no bubbles coming back through the expansion tank

**PhilipA** · 30th November 2019, 08:21 PM

And coolant ****ing out of the bolt/plastic plug on the top hose. Hint Don't overtighten even if you have a brass plug, as the thread can rip out of teh hose. Ask me how I know.

Regards PhilipA

**Big B** · 30th November 2019, 10:52 PM

Originally Posted by Eevo

are you running the heater on full when bleeding?

some air bubbles are hard to shift.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

And coolant ****ing out of the bolt/plastic plug on the top hose. Hint Don't overtighten even if you have a brass plug, as the thread can rip out of teh hose. Ask me how I know.

Regards PhilipA

My bleeder plug on top is all plastic so have been extra careful.
yes have been running heater on full.
had to pack it in this afternoon will have another go tomorrow.

thanks.

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