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Thread: MAF to Turbo Pipe - small crack

  1. #1
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    MAF to Turbo Pipe - small crack

    Hello all,

    Currently re-doing warped exhaust manifold (again), have the thread doctor due to come our tomorrow and get it all done by a pro this time. Whilst taking it off, I noticed a crack in the main pipe from the MAF to the turbo, just below where it connects to the oil breathe tube, crack is about 2 cm long. How much could this affect the performance and what would the effect be of air getting in here ?

    I am trying to decide whether to try and glue it, or replace as I wouldn't have thought there is a lot of movement within the pipe ?

    Any thoughts very gratefully received.

    Matt.man.1.jpgman.2.jpgman.3.jpg

  2. #2
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    It will let unfiltered air in after the MAF, and dirt etc intro the turbo/engine. Mine feel apart near the turbo recently so I had to replace it. You could try and patch it but I suspect that it may fail down the track, better insurance to change it

  3. #3
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    Better fix it somehow or replace it cos beside the unfiltered air it will mix up the fuelling management as the MAF reading will be lower than the real air flow and it will not match with the MAP reading expected at each ''level''
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    The part number is HOSE TD5 ESR4234 . I purchased one recently for GBP 75.00 - not cheap. There is no pattern part versions.

    Roosemotorsport in the UK make a silicone hose version. I found it to be too long and had to be trimmed down. It's a pain to change the air filter now as it doesn't have the flex in it for lifting up the air filter housing lid.

  5. #5
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    I had to get mine in a hurry as I was about to drive from Sydney to Brisbane so I taped it up and rang around, I live close to Karcraft but they had none, Kotara said they could get it in but it would take a couple of days so I found BMI at Windsor had them (bit over $100.00 from memory) so got one, pulled up in Macquarie Park Windsor, took about 5 minutes to fit and headed up the Putty Rd as we were going via Armidale anyway

  6. #6
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    Sorry just checked $203.00

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Thanks for all the replies, I hadn't thought about dirty air. Think I will have a crack with a bike puncture repair kit and see how that goes, or maybe a second hand one.

    PS when the thread doctor finished, I was tightening the manifold back on and another stud went, tried the Eazi out very carefully and some left hand drill, wouldn't budge, so drill out, tapped and got it to work, very happy. Had one new copper banjo washer and one old one if good condition as spares place had one left.

    Torqued to 25, no leaks, went for test run and stopped after 500m to check, oil coming out, so tried to tighten more to see that that would work, the washer split and bloody hell, it was like a punctured artery, oil p*ssed out across the engine bay, amazing. Managed to reduce the leak then limped down the hill in neutral and got home, there is now a trail the whole way to my house, massive amount of oil lost. Amazing how if you don't get it quite right, and even if it doesn't leak at idle, you could lose all your oil in less than 5 minutes or 2km. Moral is to check carefully. Finally got two more washers and all good now. The car now sounds beautiful and EGT's dropped hugely, car is driving effortlessly now, was struggling before and drinking diesel. Amazing how much the leak affected performance to such a massive degree. The love affair continues.......

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